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Another Pm1340gt Build

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bss1

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#31
Tim, the space taken up in z axis travel appears to be about the same either way the scale is installed. I went with the upside down approach as it allowed for a more protected installation of both the scale and the reader. The 3/16" thick angle covers both of them. If mounted on their side, the only protection would be from the sheet metal cover. I used aluminum angle, but you could have just as easily used steel.

Your compound does look thicker/higher allowing more clearance over the new handle for the cross slide lock. On the pm 1340 even the compound and the cross slide handles collide when the compound is positioned perpendicular to the ways.


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bss1

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#32
Progress continues. I have been making slow progress on evenings and weekends, but I am taking my time and enjoying the process. I finally got the machine backed into its permanent home which was the prior location of my old South Bend lathe. It was a tight fit but it'll work for now. Its the proverbial 10 pounds in an 8 pound sack scenario. I connected the wires from the lathe to the VFD, programmed the VFD from the keypad and it fired up worked on the first try. I have previously installed VFD's on a mill and a 2 X 72" belt grinder, both were very simple compared to removing and reinstalling the entire lathe electrical system. However, Mark really makes this process simple. His instructions are clear and he numbers the connections and the wires. Its basically a simple connect the dot process. He does all of the hard work. The rewire was the easiest part of this entire process.

I got the ebay tach mounted and wired. It worked perfectly after Mark helped me straighten out a minor wiring glitch on my end.

94CBDAFC-BC63-40F2-A2DE-3D66F016C544.jpg

657CCA03-EE46-4835-8E8B-0C661A66BE9E.jpg

Then I began working on a rack to hold the tool holders, chuck wrenches, and various other accessories. I used a piece of 80/20 like others have done. The hangers for the tool and chuck holders were made from 1.5" and 2" aluminum angle.

D3D9562A-E780-4DBC-984C-E83CAC042EC3.jpg

868A8FCF-D674-42E5-9552-0B1A339B4250.jpg

I still have a few adjustments to the location of the accessories on the rack, but it seems like it is going to work pretty well.

A question for those with the proximity stop affixed to the micrometer stop. Do you run the wire under the chip pan to keep it away from hot swarf or around the headstock under the gears? I currently have it under the chip tray and tuck the assembly down below on the shelf when not in use.

I have it rough leveled, but now need to dial it in and check alignment of the headstock. Then I need to eventually make a spider and modify the gear cover.
 

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jbolt

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#33
That's a sweet setup! I love the accessory tray on the stand. Nice job!
 

zmotorsports

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#34
Great looking setup. I love your stand, going to build one similar in the new shop.

Mike.
 

bss1

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#35
Thanks for the comments guys. I have not had a chance to use the tray in the use of the lathe, but I can say it has been really useful for the set up. I am always looking for a place to set something down. During the set up process, the tray has been a very convenient place to set tools and parts. It fits in a receiver so its removable and the drawers underneath are still functional with it in place. So far it has not gotten in the way at all. I had some other ideas for the other receiver, but have not had a chance to work on that yet.
20B79800-A11B-476F-A650-EC6F7C0A1133.jpg

4C438502-0461-4BF8-AA98-6117331F9444.jpg
 

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mksj

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#36
Looking really nice. The P sensor cable I normally recommend running under the pan, but you could also loop it around to the left just under the pan front lip. The cable is very tough and durable, but still do not like it sitting in oil. One thing to consider for the other right tray is to use it for your oil cans for lubrication, coolant, and things like a chip brush. Great place for everything to be handy. Firestopper (Paco) welded up a tray that I use for this, and did penetration welds so any leaking oil stays in the tray.
 

MaritimeFlies

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#37
Great job on your lathe- the stand looks fantastic!

I'm planning on getting this machine in the near future, and the 3-phase/VFD functionality is very attractive. The smooth operation, soft start and minor speed variation are the features that I'm most interested in (just the basics). The dynamic breaking/proximity stop seems really slick, but that's probably not something I'd be able to tackle right now. For my current needs (and electrical inexperience), a very basic VFD installation/conversion would be ideal.

With that in mind, I'd like to pick your brain a bit:

1. On your lathe, did you generally stick to the conversion process outlined in Mark's thread (Basic Conversion Using Stock Controls-- I am not currently allow to post links), or did you use a different strategy?
2. Could you provide any additional details about what components you built into your wall-mounted VFD enclosure? I've seen some builds where fuses were added to the single-phase 220v lines, but I haven't seen that in any of the schematics I've seen floating around these forums.

Thanks!
Cleve
 

bss1

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#38
Mark, another tray on the right side is a good option. My existing tray is definitely not liquid tight. I just tack welded the 1/8" bottom plate to the angle iron frame. I may consider a sheet metal tray with welded corners for the next one that would be leak proof/resistant.

Cleve, the electrical conversion process on my machine was a full replacement of the control panel. The entire board in the electronic control box on the back of the lathe was replace with new components. I have done a few simple VFD installations before, but this level of installation was definitely over my current skill level. Mark who posted above built the on-board system for me. All I did was make the final connections and as I said before, it fired right up and worked on the first try. Mark is a great resource on not only the electrical side of the machine, but in machining knowledge in general.

I did assemble the VFD enclosure and it's components. My enclosure contains the VFD (obviously), a main power switch, 30A fuse, and the 500W 50OHM braking resistor. I installed an intake fan and exhaust vent, but in retrospect, I think just two passive vents would be adequate. I didn't pay enough attention to realize the Hitachi VFD has its own fan with thermal switching. I don't have enclosures on my other two VFD's. They were very basic installs and their enclosures had NEMA ratings for dust exclusion, etc. All of the connections were made inside of the Actual VFD unit which had seal tite connections on the bottom, so a dedicated enclosure was not necessary. The size of the enclosure for the lathe installation is driven by the depth of the Hitachi VFD (+/-7") and the length of the braking resistor (+/- 12") . This put me into a 14" x 12" X 8" enclosure. It takes up a lot of real estate, but those two components need a lot of length/width. You may be able to get away with a 12" tall enclosure, if you can find one that is 8" deep.

Let me know if you have any other questions. I am happy to help if I can.
 

sanddan

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#39
Thanks for the comments guys. I have not had a chance to use the tray in the use of the lathe, but I can say it has been really useful for the set up. I am always looking for a place to set something down. During the set up process, the tray has been a very convenient place to set tools and parts. It fits in a receiver so its removable and the drawers underneath are still functional with it in place. So far it has not gotten in the way at all. I had some other ideas for the other receiver, but have not had a chance to work on that yet.
20B79800-A11B-476F-A650-EC6F7C0A1133.jpg

4C438502-0461-4BF8-AA98-6117331F9444.jpg


Looking good!

I love that welding table. Could you also give some details on the organization thingie I see on the table? It looks like a very handy tool for keeping the loose items in one place.

I wish I was better at the details for keeping organized in the shop. All my best ideas I've gotten from others on the web :)
 

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bss1

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#40
Dan, A friend on mine who is in the oilfield service industry gave that table to me. It is cast Iron and used to be a base for some type of big drill press or other machine tool. It weighs a ton. I have no idea how old it is. It's been a centerpiece of my shop for years. On the organizer, its just a bunch of scraps tack welded to a 1/4" base plate. The one you see in the pictures has a handle on it so I can move it out of the way when I need use of the full table.

785B80A0-E56C-48A3-AFEC-A756EAACB43C.jpg

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It works great. I even made one for my desk at work.

B161EE91-EA21-49DD-875D-FD37D2373B70.jpg
 

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sanddan

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#42
I like it, a new project for the new year.

Right now my welding table is covered with tools I got in a CL buy and is DOA for any real work until I get that stuff sorted.
 

firestopper

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#43
I really like your designs and functionality. Nice work amigo!
 

bss1

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#44
Thanks for the nice comment firestopper. Dan if you do make one of the organizer/tool holder thingy's, please post a pic so we can see your design. It's always nice to see someone else's take on things. I will make another one for the shop soon.

I finally got around to leveling and aligning the lathe. The only thing left is installation of the Igaging DRO for the tailstock. For those who have installed one, can the scales be cut without damaging the instrument? It's a little long and looks like it will need a few inches trimmed off so it doesn't tangle with the hand wheel.


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mksj

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#45
I finally got around to leveling and aligning the lathe. The only thing left is installation of the Igaging DRO for the tailstock. For those who have installed one, can the scales be cut without damaging the instrument? It's a little long and looks like it will need a few inches trimmed off so it doesn't tangle with the hand wheel.
Yes it can be trimmed, but they are hardened stainless so use a die grinder or dremel cutoff disc. The hacksaw didn't work when I tried it. I think I took off a little over an inch for a 6" scale.

Igaging Tailstock DRO 1.jpg
 

bss1

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#46
Mark,

I disassembled the unit and removed the scale. I used my bandsaw with a bimetal blade and fortunately, it cut right through.

Thanks for the help and have a great new year!


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sanddan

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#48
That Igaging unit is very nice, much nicer than the one I purchased for mine. I don't know about your lathe but on mine the numbering on the tail post quill is very hard to read. The engraving is shallow (light?) compared to my old lathe so a digital readout would be a nice mod.

You do great work, thanks for posting.
 

bss1

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#49
Thanks Dan. The markings are light on mine as well. I haven't used a tailstock DRO before today, but it was real nice. Definitely a recommended upgrade if you don't have one.


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Old Squier

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#50
Thanks Dan. The markings are light on mine as well. I haven't used a tailstock DRO before today, but it was real nice. Definitely a recommended upgrade if you don't have one.


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Wow! Man you have my head spinning around. I simply have to fabricate the stand - cool beyond belief brother. The tailstock DRO is another mod I want to do on my 1340GT. It's such a great machine, it deserves the makeover. Thank you for posting this.
I am not sure if the PM1340GT has a 220-110-24V transformer in it, but my lathe does. It uses 110V for control power for all the front panel switches, and 24V for the light. It would be easy to wire the transformer to provide power for the DRO if it could not accept 220V.

btw, if you are going to power a 110V pro by "wiring it into 1 leg of the incoming power", then you need to have a neutral power lead coming into your machine (which no lathe will be set up as by default; they are set up as two hot and ground). While ground + hot = 110V, this is a severe violation of code, and a really, really bad idea, since it results in current flow in uninsulated ground leads.

Beautiful job on the DRO installation. Does it save any z-axis room by installing the scale upside down instead of on its side? That is the DRO I am going to install on my lathe once I get done with the 15 or so projects I have partly finished.

I have a slightly different handle on my lathe, and my compound clears it. It takes about 2" of clearance above the compound. I really like these handles (mcmaster sells them). My compound looks like it is a bit wider than yours, which might help.

G0709_Carriage_Lock_zpshw4r08gy.jpg

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bss1

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#51
Thanks squire. It's been a fun project. Most all I have done has been from things I have seen here or other places on the net.

Make sure to post up your efforts so others can benefit as well.
 

Alan H

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#52
Brad, a couple of questions on your VFD panel mounting.
  1. Did you install vents and/or forced cooling in the enclosure?
  2. What rotary disconnect switch did you use and since it appears to be on the hinged side of the enclosure, does the door mounted knob link up okay with the actuating rod?
Lots of nice work you have done on your 1340! Thanks for sharing it.
 

bss1

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#53
Alan,

Although I am not certain it is necessary, I installed a 24V fan mounted on the lower left side of the enclosure and an exhaust vent on the upper right hand side. I think two vents is probably adequate.

On the switch, the entire unit is mounted to the door so there is no issue with the linkage. I drilled a through hole (can't remember the size) where the actuator connects the rotating part of the switch on the front to the module that is mounted on the backside of the door. It would be the same if you mounted the switch on a panel or the side of the enclosure. I had to leave a little extra slack in the wire so that there is enough to swing open the door, although it's mounted on the hinge side so there is not much movement of the wire. A link to the switch is attached below.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SIEMENS...396654?hash=item1a1d6659ee:g:QlkAAOSw8gVX-yeo

Let me know if the explanation was not adequate or you need more info or pictures.

Brad
 

Old Squier

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#54
Hey bss1, for some reason, the link to the dimensions attachment defaults to a HM error page. Any chance you can post it again? Thanks mucho brother!

Squire

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bss1

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#55
Squire

Are you talking about the link to the plans that Sanddan posted or some of my pictures early in the thread I didn't post correctly?

Brad


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Old Squier

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#56
BSS1,

In your first post you make reference to "dimensions" worked-up by Dan. Just below this is a link that says, simply, "View Attachment". That's what I'm interested in - the dimensions of the stand.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Best regards,

Squier

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bss1

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#57
Ok I see. I mucked up the beginning of the thread by not posting pics correctly. If you go to post number 16 Dan (Sanddan) put a direct link to his plans. Those plans are what my stand is based upon with a few minor tweaks. The dimensions reside therein. Hopefully that will answer your questions. If not let me know.

Brad
 

BFHammer

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#59
Brad - outstanding work all the way around! Great plan and great execution.

I just ordered a PM1236 and after seeing your thread it's already got me thinking about VFD upgrade and ditching the factory stand.

Also love the tool caddy - I'll shamelessly admit I'm rummaging through my scrap bin this weekend and just might end up with one on my bench!
 

bss1

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#60
Thanks guys. The machine and stand are still a bit of a work in progress.

Even though I have retained access to the original factory cross slide lock in my DRO install, I decided to add a lock on the chuck side utilizing the mounting holes for the follower rest as others have done. It is easily removable should I need the follower rest. The main reason I wanted to add it was it doesn't require any tools to lock it. The existing lock requires a wrench, which is really a minor inconvenience, but the new lock was easy to make and install. It was a fun project as well.

IMG_5646.JPG IMG_5647.JPG
IMG_5631.JPG

I am now working on a second side table for the tailstock end of the stand along with a swiveling tool holder attachment. After that I will still need to complete a spider for the outboard side of the spindle.
 
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