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Another Pm1340gt Build

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bss1

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#1
I started on this project back in September.

After reading a thread by Dan (Sanddan) on another forum outlining his stand build for a 1340gt, I developed an interest in this particular machine and warmed up to the idea of building a custom stand. I really liked Dan's design and he was very helpful providing specifications, measurements, and direction.

Subsequent to some offline discussion with Dan and later with Mark (MKSJ) I ordered the machine in early October.

With Dan's direction on the stand and Mark's extensive knowledge on the machine and the electronics, I proceeded with confidence to build the stand and acquire the 1340gt. I actually started on the stand before ordering the lathe. Initially I hoped to have the stand complete before the machine arrived, but the timing didn't quite work out that way.

I began with +\- 45' of 2" square tube with 1/4" wall thickness. I cut most o the main frame of the stand based upon the dimensions provided by Dan.

View attachment 140352

Then I began welding the legs.
ac5b12579f86ee9e0ae00106221011d0.jpg
1b480ad4ee12f762d32c9f7ed45c5d4a.jpg


Then the main frame. 70f581d0cce822d33ab012546ccea800.jpg
9b879ab117fdfcf94a57dc506556bdc9.jpg



After the main frame was put together, then I started on the shelves.
4544e9b5af4cfaa3bdeb5d79f7ea9255.jpg 9da562ac21a259362b03585d80ca3b12.jpg fcca4cca5e269fd42ea6a72881bf1fea.jpg

The 1/2" top mounting plates:
a0562b52bc38c62917aa65094034bf79.jpg

Receivers:
14f6674a9bd316ca14c03a63fe08ca4f.jpg ac5e01bd7fe8d4e9d87e30768aa25951.jpg a36ff0ce941c7507b129c5704d69ca10.jpg 2bb559596715201253a1bd0f95872509.jpg

Side panels:
6a666a26c8b02d99b60d96de6a380a8f.jpg

That's it for now. I will post more in a little while to get up to the current level of progress.
 

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bss1

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#2
The machine arrived stacked on top of an extra pallet just like everyone else here reported. I made sure to put some blocks under the edge of the crate so I could get the extra pallet out and my engine hoist legs underneath.
22043c127ac1cd3d98e5899d9418bb93.jpg
I pulled out the chip pan to check to see if it would fit. 6cb5fbf3e86aa855ef816457ef4a96ab.jpg what so you know, all of the dimensions Dan gave me were on the money!

At this point the stand was so heavy, I had to use the engine hoist to get it off the table and onto the ground and ready for paint. aedd715c333d51d5845afac1875507fd.jpg 601f578eafc2f13f18e9210863eae66d.jpg

This was the first time for it to sit on the ground. It seems to sit pretty square[emoji106]. Now to turn my shop area into a temporary paint room for the rattle can finish. 777cae62b2cd9e5b102d718dd42e3ff7.jpg

Primer:
e0cb671b031f8defb4b83c9348244219.jpg

Then top coat: b7c313c0d726c429d2fb6e309c024780.jpg 7ad45dd072ca2100edf5771adbcfdb81.jpg

Lathe set on stand: 735e2ed5db524f0070266cb452f200d0.jpg

Then the box is slid in for the first time:

e03e319c5e5c8e8b1cb2236b8a9bf860.jpg

It fits too! d8fc891e3c61dc004f708823feefafe4.jpg bd199247e29ccc3d0d9efcd3c1b7684c.jpg

Thanks Dan!
 

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bss1

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#3
Rear trim added: 7f9a0c5308782c67557f41ff3b53fc3f.jpg

Top drawer fitting: 70904d196eea500efa71c707bc7ad4e3.jpg

Collet racks for drawers: 44f8b18b4d07100e5c0cf46596793d85.jpg
1fc3e98dd3d098d01decb727a241d266.jpg

Hours of fun with hole saw produced this: 798437fda9bb6ddb22359d2d5866509c.jpg
Finished drawers: 492d13f2aee92ab55c1428d05f17a34d.jpg

72 holes mostly filled with a full set of 64th's collets: b2213c4e3949ebaf7e65cdfacd2bc035.jpg ef4ea8ee35e8ce9f55db90d3423be28d.jpg
 

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bss1

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#4
Now for the accessories for the receivers.

First is a simple work surface for the headstock end of the machine. 12569f3bbd1ee28494e57b6466ff90ed.jpg eece3a6bc95c69dc33701a5694aa07fc.jpg a54c78e2ca045cbc99607d4b447ed49a.jpg

Here is the end of progress to date: 2150d5791675a4b25ec3f4150730f122.jpg 453893b6fc614a6d61cda73c44b1b8d1.jpg

So far it has been a really fun and satisfying project. I still have a little left to go on the stand then on the the MKSJ portion of the project .... VFD and rewire. Electronics are not my strongpoint but I feel confident I can pull it off with the great instruction and encouragement provided by Mark.
 

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Hozzie

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#5
I think your images may not be shared correctly. I see nothing but X's.
 

wrmiller

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#6
bss1: your pics didn't come through. Nothing but red 'X' marks instead of pics. Would love to see them, as I have been thinking about making my own stand for mine as well.
 

bss1

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#7
Sorry, I see the X's now that I am on a PC. The pics are on my phone and when I log in from there they show up. I will have to work on that this evening.
 

sanddan

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#8
I've had luck transferring the phone pics to my laptop using the charge cord (USB) and then editing the size before posting.
Actually, it's the only way I know how to do it.:)
 

bss1

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#9
Sorry guys I can't get this to work tonight. I will have to try again tomorrow
 

pstemari

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#10
Sweet setup!! The ERL-1340 footbrake prevents putting anything under it. I really wish I had drawers like those.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

bss1

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bss1

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#12
I was able to get a few images in there. I will keep trying later but at least this will give you an idea.
 

AirWolf

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#15
VERY NICE!! I'm drooling!! Going to have to build one of these ASAP! Sent a note to Dan asking for the plans... this is project #1
 

sanddan

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#16
Great job, I love the added drawers.

Here are the drawings (such as they are) for the stand as I built mine. I modified the HF tool box on mine by removing the lid and trimming the top flange. Only done to minimize the gap around the box when it's installed in the stand frame. Adjust the dimensions for the box you use.

Order on assembly:

1. Assemble the 2 end sections.
2. Using the 4 long tubes connect the 2 end sections. Keep every thing tacked at this point.
3. Fill in the rest of the tubes and install the feet.
4. Install the shelf pieces.
5. Weld the frame assembly. Move around when welding to minimize distortion.
6. Install the sheet metal filler pieces.
7. Once the frame is fully welded time to setup the mount plates. The goal is to get the 2 plates aligned in the horizontal plane. I used 2 heavy wall square tubes with the 2 plates clamped to them. I then tacked the plates to the frame. I did a test fit by mounting the lathe on the stand before final welding of the mounts. I then did a few 1" stitch welds.
7.1 Instead of 2 mount plates you can use a one piece plate. It's important to get the flattest plate you can.

I used .120" wall tubing, a good improvement would be .250".

I wanted the "one piece cast look" so all welds were ground smooth and filler was used before paint. The sheet metal filler plates were designed with this in mind. Less work would be to stitch weld them on the inside and leave the outside as is. Laser cut parts have a finished looking edge so I think this would be a good look.

The drawers are another great addition.
 

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bss1

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#18
I seem to have made a mess of the thread with the pics. I can't tell which of the pics you guys can see. If I'm looking on my iPad or iPhone I can see all of the pics in my initial posts but not the ones I posted later from a PC. I wish I could tell what everyone else is seeing so I could try to fix it.

Dans plans were a huge help. With those plans I was able to completely fabricate the stand without ever having seen the lathe or test fitting anything.

My stand is not as refined as Dans is. He put a lot of effort into a custom paint and finish job that makes his look like a factory produced item. I made a few small changes from Dan's base design, but for the most part it is a direct copy with a lesser paint and finish job. Instead of cutting the top lip off of the HF box like Dan, I made my stand 1 inch taller than the plans and added a 1" piece of angle that the front top lip of the box indexes into. It was just a different way of producing a clean finished look without the effort of trimming the box top. I also added two pieces of 2" angle to the rear of the cabinet to cover the exposed area of the box top that protrudes from the rear of the cabinet. That was just to keep the dust bunnies from accumulating in the open area on top of the box. The drawers turned out better than I expected. I might suggest that someone try to add a deep bottom drawer with a custom rack for the chucks instead of the open shelf that I have. I would add it to mine but I'm out of steam for now. I also added some receivers for some removable accessories. So far I have only made the small work tray. It has been handy for working on the lathe for a place to set small parts and tools besides the chip tray or headstock. The only other change I can think of was that I added two strips of 1/2" square bar between the two top plates to make it look like one big 1/2" top plate. That should be visible in the pics without the lathe on top. I will try to post another pic of this from my PC.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

bss1

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#19
IMG_0552.JPG IMG_0544.JPG Attached is a pic of the stand without the lathe.


I thought of another few changes I made from the plans and that was to add a little additional support for the HF box as well as making some feet for the legs on the end of the stand that added about 5 inches of front to back width for additional stability. I also used 1/4" thick tubing for the main frame. It turned out to be really stout. Most of the welding was done with TIG except for the side panels and some of the minor work on the drawers.
 
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sanddan

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#20
I like your ideas.

Maybe a better layout for the shelf's would be one smaller drawer at the top and one large drawer on the bottom. The shelf's on mine aren't a great height (a little too short to fit a gal jug of coolant/oil). It's one thing I would do different if I was building it again. Currently I still haven't filled the tool box yet so lack of storage isn't an issue.

Another upgrade I'd thought of but didn't do is to fill the legs with sand or lead shot to add mass and dampening. Not sure it's needed but it might be a great upgrade.
 

zmotorsports

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#21
Great looking stand. Nice job. I too had gotten Dan's plans a few months back but will be waiting to build the stand until I am in my new shop next year.

Great work.

Mike.
 

bss1

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#22
Thanks guys. Now that the stand is pretty much done I'm working on the VFD, then the DRO install.

Stand by Dan, soon to be powered by MKSJ!
 

bss1

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#23
Progress has been slow. I have completed the VFD enclosure and installation of the new MKSJ electrical system. The DRO was installed this weekend. All that is left is some minor clean up on the DRO and the installation of the Tach. I have not yet connected the lathe with the power as the VFD and enclosure are mounted on the wall in the final resting place for the machine. I currently have the machine in an open area that allows me more room to maneuver until all of the installation of accessories are complete.

The DRO is a DRO Pros EL 400 with mag scales. I mounted my cross slide scale different than most. Mark gave my the idea for the installation, but I am not sure I executed his idea exactly as he had in mind, but it's done now! Dan also has a similar but slightly different installation on his machine with glass scales.

The scale was mounted face down with the reader pointing up. The bracket the mount is attached to is a piece of 3/16" by 1.5" aluminum angle. the 1.5" width allowed enough room for a 5/16" opening to access the cross slide lock. The reader is mounted to a piece of 1/2" aluminum plate that I milled down to about 3/8" thick for the appropriate placement of the read head.

C357B540-EF23-4E4B-9574-218D4DD93F14.jpg
FB8261B1-982F-487D-A74C-62063FD339DF.jpg

826E1992-D8B5-4FAE-9D3B-D7C57BCA0655.jpg

Part of this design was born from a comment that Dan made about wanting some protection from a potential bump from the Tailstock. The edge of the aluminum angle is about 1/8" proud of the scale, so it should be protected from an eventual bump from the tailstock. Initially, I was not going to install a cover, but I ended up finding a beat up piece of stainless sheet metal I had in the scrap bin that I used to fabricate a cover. It has a few deep scratches that wouldn't buff out but it will be functional nonetheless. It is secured to the top of the aluminum angle with some thumb screws I had left over from another project. The cover slides over revealing the slot for the cross slide access.

54D9B2AB-F19C-407E-BE62-E2EDAF627204.jpg

5F8B4D25-0BD2-412D-ACD0-96825B28A69E.jpg

I am not sure what to do with the routing of the cables to the reader yet. Should they just be taken under the splash guard and up to the display head? If so do they just drag back and forth across the back of the cabinet?

F4459548-1997-42B3-854F-97162EB802D2.jpg

I mounted the arm for the display to the back splash where the light is supposed to go. I will relocate the light to the middle similar to what Mark and others have done. I hope this location is not too close to the chuck.
9C70DD8C-AB38-42EC-B398-59035EB7CF94.jpg

I am wondering if the display should be plugged into the wall or if it could be wired into one leg of the incoming power inside of the electrical box on the back of the lathe? That way it would power up with the machine.

Thanks to Dan and Mark for the continued patience and support.

Brad
 

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JimFouch

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#24
I am wondering if the display should be plugged into the wall or if it could be wired into one leg of the incoming power inside of the electrical box on the back of the lathe? That way it would power up with the machine.

Brad
If you have 240 single phase going into the lathe, you may want to check on the voltage input requirements for your DRO. Mine (A different model than yours) is 120/240. I decided to run mine in 110 of one side of the 240 coming into the lathe, but that was before I noticed the DRO would take 240.

Many devices with step-down transformers these days detect the incoming voltage and will run on 110/240. usually, the companies just ship them with the cords for the countries they will be sold in.
 

JimFouch

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#25
Brad,

Does your quick handle for locking the saddle interfere with your compound when it's rotated? I put one like this on mine and it stuck up just a bit too far and caused me issues. Yours looks a bit lower.

If you could share the source/part number.
 

sanddan

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#26
Great job Brad. I have to change my DRO display mount over to one like yours. It's on the list.

I wired my DRO into a 110 leg on the original transformer in the electrical box. Currently everything powers up on one switch which is convenient for me.

My cables lay in the chip tray in one loop long enough for the carriage travel. The excess cable attaches to the back splash.
 

mksj

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#27
Nicely done, the scale is mounted as I had envisioned, you went the extra mile in milling a full length bracket and a nice idea on the sliding cover. The EL400 is universal power, so would be fine pull AC 240 power from the lathe control box. DRO should be be ok where it is located. I did add a splash shield to my lathe, had oil spraying all over before that. When mounting the light in the center of the splash shield, the back splash metal can flex quite a bit, so you should build a bracket that is bigger than the stock L to decrease the flex. I believe the newer lights are LED, if not I wide switch out the bulb. Always takes longer than you think to install the DRO and workout the details, very slick.
 

bss1

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#28
Thanks for the complements guys. Jim, the handle for the saddle lock does get slightly tangled with the compound. I'm out of town and don't have access to the part number right now but I don't think it will matter since it seems to have the same problem as yours. This one is die cast zink so I may take a little off the end with the belt grinder. If someone has one that works better, I would be interested in the part number as well.
 
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bss1

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#29
Mark,

On the light, I did move it to the middle and made a backer plate out of a scrap of 1/4" aluminum plate. It is an LED version. The backer plate is about 7" wide by 4" tall. I used the large bulkhead washers on the front side facing the lathe. The light still has a little bounce to it so I may need to make a larger backing plate.

Once I moved the light, I think I might like a shorter arm. It seems a little awkward in this position and may conflict with a shelf when I move the lathe to a permanent location. Anyone try to shorten the arms? Looking at it, It doesn't really seem feasible.


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tmarks11

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#30
I am wondering if the display should be plugged into the wall or if it could be wired into one leg of the incoming power inside of the electrical box on the back of the lathe?
I am not sure if the PM1340GT has a 220-110-24V transformer in it, but my lathe does. It uses 110V for control power for all the front panel switches, and 24V for the light. It would be easy to wire the transformer to provide power for the DRO if it could not accept 220V.

btw, if you are going to power a 110V pro by "wiring it into 1 leg of the incoming power", then you need to have a neutral power lead coming into your machine (which no lathe will be set up as by default; they are set up as two hot and ground). While ground + hot = 110V, this is a severe violation of code, and a really, really bad idea, since it results in current flow in uninsulated ground leads.

Beautiful job on the DRO installation. Does it save any z-axis room by installing the scale upside down instead of on its side? That is the DRO I am going to install on my lathe once I get done with the 15 or so projects I have partly finished.

I have a slightly different handle on my lathe, and my compound clears it. It takes about 2" of clearance above the compound. I really like these handles (mcmaster sells them). My compound looks like it is a bit wider than yours, which might help.

G0709_Carriage_Lock_zpshw4r08gy.jpg
 
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