Annealing machine?

[TrxR]

Anyone here ever build a brass annealing machine? I am thinking about building something like this.



I am thinking of using an old windshield wiper motor and a cab light dimmer switch to control the speed. The only concern I have is getting the saw tooth plate has I dont have a mill to make one

What do you all think ? Do you have any advise of ideas or pictures of ones you have made?

Thanks

 

[Ray C]

That's a pretty nifty invention but, other than some kind of motor drive and possibly another torch to give a more uniform heating, what needs improvement? The big gear you have there looks suitable.

I do have one question in general though... I've done a good bit of pistol cartridge reloading and am quite familiar with the process but, what purpose does the heating serve? Brass hardens when heated. Is that the desired goal and what purpose does it serve? My guess is that this is a way to toughen up virgin brass.


Ray

 

[TrxR]

My version I plan on building will have two torches for more even heat.

Actually as you fire rifle brass it tends to harden making your sizing and seating tension less uniform. What happens when you heat the brass to around 750 or so degrees Fahrenheit it actually softens the brass again. So from I read if you anneal every couple of firings you will have more consistent loads.

By the way that one is not mine but I plan on making one similar. I just got to figure out how I am going to get a gear like that.

Thanks

That's a pretty nifty invention but, other than some kind of motor drive and possibly another torch to give a more uniform heating, what needs improvement? The big gear you have there looks suitable.

I do have one question in general though... I've done a good bit of pistol cartridge reloading and am quite familiar with the process but, what purpose does the heating serve? Brass hardens when heated. Is that the desired goal and what purpose does it serve? My guess is that this is a way to toughen up virgin brass.


Ray

 

[blaser.306]

To my knowledge brass work hardens and when annealed it returns to a softer more pliable state, That way you do not split case necks with multiple firing/ sizing operations. I have entertained the thought of building one for myself but in leiu of anything DC powered Like your wiper motor idea. I was going to use a BBQ rotiseire drive I beleive they are aroung 1 - 1 1/2 rpm after the gear reducer. The nice thing about that set up is the motor / drive is already expected to run for hours on end , and the 120V ac voltage set up is nice too .

 

[Ray C]

Gotcha, thanks...

The big gear... I'd probably make it out of aluminum plate. I don't think you need high precision so, you could manually draw it out with layout ink, rulers and protractors then, cut it on a bandsaw.

What tools do you have available?


Ray

 

[TrxR]

Blaser: Wiper motors are generally on for hours at a time as well and for DC power I was thinking of using an old PC power supply I have kicking around to power it.

Ray C : I do have a bandsaw, drill press, and other hands tools like grinders,drills, etc.

I never thought of cutting it out on a band saw, but that would probably work out just fine.

 

[Ray C]

And what was I thinking??? If you're happy with the unit in the photo, just trace it out. -Sorry for making life complicated.

It will need a little filing which is kinda annoying with aluminum because it packs-up the teeth but, that's easily fixed with a wire brush if you're using a cheapo file. Some folks will spray the file with WD-40 to make it easier to unpack. Other types of greases are also common for that purpose. WD works fine.

Ray

Blaser: Wiper motors are generally on for hours at a time as well and for DC power I was thinking of using an old PC power supply I have kicking around to power it.

Ray C : I do have a bandsaw, drill press, and other hands tools like grinders,drills, etc.

I never thought of cutting it out on a band saw, but that would probably work out just fine.

)

 

[Hawkeye]

Not to over-simplify, but why not make the saw-tooth disk from an old 10" saw blade. You could cut off every second or third tooth quite easily with a small angle grinder. Might have to be a bit careful with drilling, unless you anneal the blade first.

 

[TrxR]

The tooth part is what turns the wheel. It uses a paddle that turns at a settable speed that engages the teeth to turn the wheel. That way you can have the brass sit in one position within the flame for a set amount of time.

The brass cases fall though the hole in the plywood into a bucket of water.

Brass and silver work opposite of steel, red-hot and quench is annealing instead of hardening.


I don't see why you would need the sawtooth pattern at all, looks like the holes are being used.

I'd consider a taller plate so they don't fall over as you turn to index
Or replaceable bushing type inserts for different sizes.

 

[MG-42]

There use a company that use to make an annealing machine. I will try and dig up the add. It was basically the same design.