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[CNC] Anilam 3200mk Help

Discussion in 'CNC IN THE HOME SHOP' started by 95ttoplt1, Jan 16, 2016.

  1. Jim_Hbar

    Jim_Hbar Active Member Active Member

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    It is shown on page 52 and/or 53 in the manual you linked to in post #76.
    It's connected to terminal H, O & L on the lower left side of the VFD in those schematics. You'll have to read the manual to find what value of pot they want.
     
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  2. 95ttoplt1

    95ttoplt1 United States Active Member Active Member

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    Awesome thanks!

    Uploading picture of the power supply now. It does have 120v going in. I've found a couple little screen prints but nothing definitive to me. I'm sure you guys will know right off.
     
  3. 95ttoplt1

    95ttoplt1 United States Active Member Active Member

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    There is two boards mounted onto the power supply bracket in the lower left corner of the CNC box.

    This is the first board I pulled off to examine.
    20160222_184202.jpg

    I have 120v in here. That is all that I could figure out to check. This is the top left of the above picture. One of two plugs on this board.

    20160222_182526.jpg

    This is plug number two on board number one. You can see some labels on the bottom. I think they are referring to voltages out per pin groups. You can kind of see the groups in the printed circuits under the board. Is there some kind of key to this?

    20160222_182548.jpg
    20160222_182555.jpg

    Here is the back of the board with the part number

    20160222_185024.jpg

    And here is the complete back or board number one. Power in plug is top left.
    20160222_190329.jpg

    20160222_192606.jpg

    http://www.protekpowerna.com/datasheet/1-9 PU110.pdf

    Do the output numbers here coreclate to v1, v2 etc? edit, nevermind the last page has a pin out!
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2016
  4. 95ttoplt1

    95ttoplt1 United States Active Member Active Member

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  5. JimDawson

    JimDawson Global Moderator Staff Member Director

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    If you are comfortable doing so, powering it up on the bench and probing the pins with a multimeter might help narrow things down a bit. If everything isn't dead, then just knowing what is working might help narrow down the voltages by process of elimination. I assume that this was the board that powered up the computer, and you have had the computer running on another power supply, so you know where the wires go on that end. If it is a computer supply, then I would expect to find +5V, -5V, +12V, and -12V, all measured to common.

    It looks like: the first 3 pins on the right (V1) might be +5V, the next four are Common, the next two (V2) might be +12V, and I have no idea what the next one is (PG), and the last two should be -5V (VS), and -12V(V4). DISCLAIMER: This is only my best guess.
     
  6. 95ttoplt1

    95ttoplt1 United States Active Member Active Member

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    That's exactly my plan for tommorow jim!
    Those two links have pin outs for each board. That should make it pretty simple.
     
  7. JimDawson

    JimDawson Global Moderator Staff Member Director

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    Last edited: Feb 22, 2016
  8. 95ttoplt1

    95ttoplt1 United States Active Member Active Member

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    Little progress today. Looks like I have some power supply issues. I think all can be rectified by just swapping in the ATX.

    Heres my findings

    PU-110-32a

    All readings are with no load

    pins 1,2,3 to 4,5,6,7= +5.76V spec +5v
    pins 8,9 to 4,5,6,7= +13.8V spec +15v(I did adjust this as high as possible, low range was 9.8, best I could get was 13.8)
    pin 11 to 4,5,6,7= -13.8V spec -15V

    PU-30-32SL

    1,2 to 3,4= 5.13v
    5 to 3,4= -14.05V spec is -12V
    6 to 3,4= +15.05V spec is +15V

    I'm not sure what pins are used off these, but both are pretty far off and wont adjust into spec. Each board only has one pot for adjustment, like only one channel can be adjusted. Maybe this one pot effects all channels?

    So the first thing I see looking at swapping in the ATX is that is does not offer a 15V channel. Open to suggestions on how to solve that for close to free. I looked up these two boards and both seem obsolete and around $500 bucks at that.
     
  9. 95ttoplt1

    95ttoplt1 United States Active Member Active Member

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  10. JimDawson

    JimDawson Global Moderator Staff Member Director

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    I would swap in the ATX, and just try to run with the +/- 15V supply. The drives don't need a +/- 15V signal, the signal to the drives is +/- 10V. If the voltages are reasonably stable under load, I think it should work.
     
  11. 95ttoplt1

    95ttoplt1 United States Active Member Active Member

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    I'm going to put it back together tomorrow and see what I get work it all installed.

    The voltages that are out are the 15v on both boards. Neither is replicated by the ATX so at this point I don't see a reason to swap it in. Am I missing something?
     
  12. JimDawson

    JimDawson Global Moderator Staff Member Director

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    I think you are going the right direction. Check the voltages under load when you have it reassembled and see where they're at. That might tell a different story.
     
  13. 95ttoplt1

    95ttoplt1 United States Active Member Active Member

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    So after half a night sleep something sticks out to me. I don't have a source for +12v yet, atleast spec wise on either power supply. The PU-110 was set to +12.19 on pin 8,9 and -12.35 on 11. Maybe Anilam was using this part outside of its specs, OR seeing how this board is revision K I wonder it that is supposed to be my 12v source.

    The fella I bought the mill from said he talked to Anilam support and had adjusted the power supplys so the readings are at least in question.

    What is still odd, and I will double check today, is that with everything powered on I got zero power indicator LED's in the console where I previously jumpered power before. With what seems like two channels atleast showing close to the correct power it would seem I have a common or ground connection issue between the console and control box.

    I'm putting the PSU together this moring and if I feel well I'll go out and trace some wires to see if I can determine if that channel is supposed to be 12v or 15v.

    Thanks for following along! Hopefully I'll get to make chips on this thing in Febuary.

    On a side note if anyone spots a good deal on a Kurt D688 or a pair of 4 inch kurts let me know. I just missed a 30% sale with free shipping at ENCO and I'm on their mailing list now.
     
  14. TomS

    TomS Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    I've been following your troubleshooting from the beginning and find it fascinating. I won't pretend to know much about what you and the two Jim's, and others, are talking about but the methodical approach described in this thread keeps me coming back to read the next segment of the Anilam 3200 saga. Thanks for sharing.

    Tom S.
     
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  15. 95ttoplt1

    95ttoplt1 United States Active Member Active Member

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    Glad to provide some entertainment!

    20160224_152109.jpg

    The console is running on the power supply in the box!! The CRT seems to have quit, and it can't find the keyboard now, it seems I've lost power to the keyboard board (front of the console).

    I can see that this console will not be bolted to the mill as it is now. Anything this finicky doesnt need to be vibrated all the time.
     
  16. JimDawson

    JimDawson Global Moderator Staff Member Director

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    At least you're making progress. This point is where I normally get out the big hammer for some minor attitude adjustment! :grin:
     
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  17. 95ttoplt1

    95ttoplt1 United States Active Member Active Member

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    Don't you hate it when a new guy makes some huge long thread with no ending? Me too.

    Life has got in the way. I'll try to get back in this in the coming week. Thanks everyone for the help and following along.
     
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  18. 95ttoplt1

    95ttoplt1 United States Active Member Active Member

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    I'm back!

    Well I got the spindle to work and then health issues and life got in the way. The controller is back on the kitchen table. I never figured out the keyboard issue. I got it powered up on the bench, and the battery is dead again. So ordering a new one and waiting for that. edit: I just pulled the battery and I have 3.12volts... I think the battery is good. Going to find an old keyboard tomorrow and get this junk working.

    On a positive note, the mill has already paid for itself, even running in manual mode. I stumbled on a deal for a used Smithy 1340 Granite and picked that up as well. I know they get a lot of hate, but what a great little machine, its been a cash cow for the shop, Just little small jobs that don't warrant the BP.

    I'll update as it get it going. I finally retired and we got an RV so we travel to drag races quite a bit. Racing the next two weekends, but I hope to make CNC chips by March.

    Thanks to all the gents that took time out of their day to help me! This thread was a great refresher once I packed the controller back into the house.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2017
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  19. 95ttoplt1

    95ttoplt1 United States Active Member Active Member

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    20170209_115626.jpg I'm back in action, kinda.

    Bought a keyboard for $5 and got it booted up.

    The keyboards on the machine are completely unresponsive. There are the little leds, and only the kdat one flickers.

    Any ideas on where to start?
     

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