Albrecht Chuck

Flyrod

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Hi Guys

I picked up an Albrecht chuck from ebay...looks to be in pretty good shape

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it was sold with the r8 arbor shown above - i bought it to use in an Index 40 mill (now converted to accept r8 tooling) - the problem is that this arbor is a little too long...and when fully drawn up into the mill, it is still loose - i need to shorten it by about 1/4"

i guess i could just cut it down (saw, grind, machine in the lathe?)

but the other option is to press the arbor out and put in a new one that is a little shorter

unlike the one pictured in tom lipton's rebuild video, here:

or the write up here: http://www.machinistblog.com/rebuilding-an-albrecht-drill-chuck/

the collar does not have a screw in it that you can remove and pry the collar off - for most of these chucks, you clamp on the part under the collar and on the hood and turn in opposite directions and the hood comes off

Albrecht3-300x290.jpg

once the hood is off, i could unscrew the spindle and then press the r8 arbor it came with off

on mine, the collar is permanently [?] affixed to the shell

when i turn the collar, the arbor moves and the jaws inside move - neither the black part of the body or the hood that is affixed to the block body move

can any one tell me how to take this apart? - if i had to guess, i should clamp on the black body and the hood - but before i mess something up i thought i would ask

thanks fellas
 
Are you saving the "too long" arbor for something special?

If your application requires that 1/4" taken off, then cut it off. Lots of different ways to do the job. Using a lathe would probably work very well (I doubt it is particularly hard). Either cut it off in your saw (add a bunch of packing to the saw vise - I keep an old V-block for such applications) and then gently face it for clean up, or simply face it with lots of little cuts. Will your lathe chuck take the drill chuck in the bore? Just grip over some packing (perhaps aluminum or copper) and away you go. You could even snug some threaded rod (or a bolt) into the drawbar hole and provide TS support (part of which you would cut away).
 
Thanks David

no...not saving the arbor for anything

the chuck will not fit into the bore of the lathe - since the knurling is the widest part, i would have to clamp on that ... afraid i would ruin the knurling

i guess unless anyone else has a dissassembly suggestion, i'll just using something to cut a bit of the arbor off
 
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Couldn't you add a spacer on your draw bar. ?? Are your other collets real r8 or just look it. I ask because other collets look close but aren't. Is the draw bar tight and it's still loose. ?? It may need the hole drilled and tapped deeper.. Something don't sound right.... at least to me...
 
I could be wrong but it looks like you have the integral shank model. If yes, you can't simply remove the arbor from the chuck.

This is what it would look like with a removeable arbor, see the difference?

(Pic stolen from the net)
Albrecht-Keyless-Drill-Chuck-1-8-5-8-_1.jpg
 
Couldn't you add a spacer on your draw bar. ?? Are your other collets real r8 or just look it. I ask because other collets look close but aren't. Is the draw bar tight and it's still loose. ?? It may need the hole drilled and tapped deeper.. Something don't sound right.... at least to me...

i haven't measured the taper, it came with the chuck, but it was advertised as r8 - yes, the drawbar is tight and it is still loose - seems like the draw bars is bottoming out without pulling it up high enough

I could be wrong but it looks like you have the integral shank model. If yes, you can't simply remove the arbor from the chuck.

This is what it would look like with a removeable arbor, see the difference?

(Pic stolen from the net)
View attachment 239933

Will... exactly - mine does not have that removable collar - it is not clear to me how to disassemble it - i think that i would grip on the black part of the body and unscrew the hood - then take out the spindle once i am inside - their normal chuck arbors press fit in (i think it is typically a jacobs 6...not sure) - but as you suggest, maybe the arbor is on for life

if that is the case, i think i draw a line for how much to take off, use a hack saw for most and grind down to that line (and clean up any rough edges) - if that makes it work (and there is no way to get the arbor out)

i think the model i have is the:

Self-tightening drill chuck with integrated R8 shank. 1 - 13 mm, on page 19 of the attached catalog - Will...you are probably right that the arbor is dedicated - you can see that many of the other morse taper arbors have a tang where is the "bridgeport" model does not

Silverbullet's idea of another spacer at the top of the draw bar might work...but adds another loose part in the system
 

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Yes the split & non split collar is another indication. But the easiest way to tell is on yours the R8 tapers goes all the way to the body of the chuck with no gap. On a removeable arbor model like I posted a pic of, you can see a large gap between the R8 taper & chuck, this is where you would insert wedge removal tools.

I'm curious now, do other R8 arbors fit your spindle just fine (well I assume yes)? I thought R8 would be an industry standard but never thought about the length of the arbor to be that critical. If you compare it to your other R8s that fit, is it that much longer?

What's inside your spindle that prevents the arbor from tightening up? Without using the drawbar, can you push the Albrecht all the way into the taper? What comes to mind rather than the Albrecht arbor being too long is, maybe your draw bar is too long or running out of threads to tighten it up. Or if your spindle has the key, maybe the slot on the Albrecht is not long enough?
 
If Silverbullet's suggestion of using a spacer works, that leads me to believe your drawbar is too long for this particular arbor.

I guess I never ran into this problem cause I made my draw bar with a double nut design to account for issues like this (well my stock one was the same way).

img_6392-jpg.158415
 
Will - thanks - good suggestions

I recently got my first mill, and Index (now Wells-Index) model 40 from 1949

stock, it came with a B&S #9 taper in the quill - Wells-Index has a service where they will regrind it to r8 for about 250 - i just did that - i will take out the drawbar tomorrow and take some pictures and measurements

it does not have a key

i will say that when i put the albrecht/r8 arbor next to a set of r8 arbors (cheap chinese) that i bought for the mill, the albrecht is about 1/4" longer than the other set - i don't have any other r8 collets or tooling to use for comparison...this is all new to me
 
Ah I see, I was just hoping there might be another solution rather than having to modify your beautiful Albrecht. Your's is really clean! But if it has to be done to get it to work with your mill then ya gotta do what you gotta do!
 
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