Advice On Removing Bent Arbor From Spindle

JimDawson said:
IMHO you guys are really overthinking this one. This is type of job is why dead blow hammers were invented. Smack the chuck body on the high side with a dead blow. Check with dial indicator on a drill shank or dowel pin in the chuck. Repeat as necessary. I do this on my mill when needed, and have done it on drill presses. It won't hurt the bearings.
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Interesting. I did this to my floor drill press when I first got it and discovered that the chuck wobbled a bit, but I assumed that it was a farmer fix. It did work, though.
 
Lower your quill all the way down to see if there is a drift hole. If so you may have an adapter.

Lay the dp on its back, swing the table out of the way, Chuck a 3/8" bolt loosly in the chuck with the end bottomed out against the Jacobs taper. Use the chuck to pull the quill out with one hand, and drive the bolt back into the chuck with a hammer in the other hand. The quill will retract rapidly when it comes loose, so don't extend it all the way out.

Sent from somwhere in east Texas by Jake!
 
JimDawson said:
This is type of job is why dead blow hammers were invented. Smack the chuck body on the high side with a dead blow. Check with dial indicator on a drill shank or dowel pin in the chuck. Repeat as necessary. I do this on my mill when needed, and have done it on drill presses. It won't hurt the bearings.
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JD, I'll give this a try, any recommendation on the weight of the dead blow hammer? I think I'll do what Jake suggested and lay the DP down. Easy to swing going down than sideways. Should I chuck a rod and strike the rod, rather than strike the chuck?

There is no drift slot in the quill, so Bob might be right that the spindle is tapered.

Jake, I'm not following you on your suggestion, why whould the 3/8 bolt be loose is the chuck? How would hitting the bottom end of the taper (via the chuck) with a loose bolt exert the right force to bend the spindle back? Don't I need a perpendicular blow and not a latteral blow?

Thanks for all the advice guys!
 
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Gavin
JP's advice was a way to remove the chuck from the spindle. His advice assumes that there is a hole through the chuck so that you can access the end of the Jacobs Taper with said 3/8" bolt.
 
Randall Marx said:
Gavin
JP's advice was a way to remove the chuck from the spindle. His advice assumes that there is a hole through the chuck so that you can access the end of the Jacobs Taper with said 3/8" bolt.
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Ah, I get it. I'll have to check if there's a hole through the chuck to get to the spindle. So the blow on the bolt, assuming it's touching the spindle, will drive the spindle and quill back in while holding on to the chuck. What's the best way to hold the chuck when striking the bolt/spindle? Don't I need to prevent it from returning with the rapidly retracting spindle?
 
You will need two wedges (or maybe more to stack to get the height). Modify yours, make new ones or buy some. I would NOT assume any findings until you get the chuck off. Those import chucks are not the best. I would get a good Jacobs chuck and check the spindle bearings. Then do a little testing.
 
GavinT said:
JD, I'll give this a try, any recommendation on the weight of the dead blow hammer?
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I normally use a 3 or 4 pound. Just bought a new 4 pounder yesterday.:grin:

GavinT said:
Don't I need to prevent it from returning with the rapidly retracting spindle?
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Just the inertia of the chuck is enough to get the spindle and chuck apart. Another way is to use a small hammer (6 or 8 oz) and a flat punch (cold chisel with the the sharp edge rounded over). Hit the spindle just above the chuck, the vibration will cause the taper fit to pop loose. This is how you get chucks off of straight arbors.
 
JimDawson said:
I normally use a 3 or 4 pound. Just bought a new 4 pounder yesterday.:grin:

Just the inertia of the chuck is enough to get the spindle and chuck apart. Another way is to use a small hammer (6 or 8 oz) and a flat punch (cold chisel with the the sharp edge rounded over). Hit the spindle just above the chuck, the vibration will cause the taper fit to pop loose. This is how you get chucks off of straight arbors.
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Hi JD, so I'm assuming you recommend removing the chuck first and working directly on the spindle with the dead drop? If the chuck is junk, I can't measure off that anyway.

To remove the chuck, I'm going to try tapping the spindle in the high side of the runout with a cold chisel. See if that budges it.

I'll try wedges next, and I'll need to pack between the wedges as I don't want to buy more. Anything I need to be careful of with the base of the quill? Is that the bearing housing?

If that doesn't budge the chuck, I'll drill the back of the chuck, tap and try that.

If the dead blow is successful, I'll put the chuck back on and measure again. If it's off, I guess a new chuck.

I've learned more from this advice, y'all, than googling! It'll be a few days before I can tackle this, so any last minute "gotchas" are appreciated. I'll take pics and let you know how it's going.

Happy 4th! Have fun and be safe.
 
All of my keyed chucks have the end of the taper exposed but the keyless chucks do not.
 
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