Adventures in knurling.

[David Kirtley]

I had put off trying knurling. Back when I made a parting tool holder (left) , I just left it plain and used the alternative knurler (channel locks). Well, that was substandard. I figured I had better get with it and learn how to use the knurlers.

I started out with scrap stock and went through the practice and finally got it figured out. Here are samples in steel (top), brass (middle), and aluminum(bottom).



While the knurling was coming out ok, I didn't like putting that much force on the cross slide to get it done so I ordered a new clamping type knurler.



Much better. It makes knurling a no brainer. Here is a sample on my tommy bar for my ER32 collet holder.



Makes it look much more like a tool rather than just a random piece of steel. Here is a close up. I filed the knurls a little as it felt like holding a rasp because the knurls were so sharp.

 

[psychodelicdan]

Nice looking work
Can


Master of unfinished projects

 

[mikey]

Nice job, David! Being able to knurl is great, isn't it? I agree that the scissors knurler is the only way to go on a Sherline. I decided to make one since I couldn't find one I liked that was sized for our lathes.

Here's mine:



Works great and cost me nothing except for the knurls.

Enjoy your new tool. I'm sure this is just the start of many great projects with it.

Mikey

 

[David Kirtley]

Very pretty. What did you use for the axles for the knurls?

 

[Ray C]

David and Mikey...

Nice work there to the both of you!

The clamp-style tools are indeed a big step forward but, you'll jump a light year ahead by using precision wheels. Darkzero (Will) on this list turned me on to the ones from this place http://accu-trak.com/company_profile.html and I'm sold! Try the convex type which have an apropriately contoured spiral on the radiused edges. It's designed so that as you clamp into the work, the lines stay straight as the effective cutting diameter decreases. -Cat's Meow!

The cheapo knurl wheels that come with your basic $30 holder tend to have very uneven thread spacing. I even had a few where the center holes were not centered. -Causes all kinds of problems.


Ray

 

[mikey]

Hi Dave, I used 3/16" drill rod. Each has a shallow slot on one end into which a washer fits. The washer is held by a small SHCS. This idea came from Guy Lautard's book and works very well. It allows very fast and easy clean up of the arm, knurls and pin. The knurler is based on a design from Chris Heapy in the UK and was chosen because of the two side plates that limits lateral movement of the arms under load and greatly reduce mis-tracking of the wheels. Clearance between the arms and plates is almost zero; the arms can move freely but have no discernable side-play. Capacity is zero to 2-1/8", which works for stuff I do.

Ray, I know about convex knurls but thought they are best used in bump knurlers that are not suitable for small machines like ours. I use only Form Rol knurls with ground edges. These are suitable for axial running and work okay on a scissors knurler. I'll look into those accu-trak knurls; might be they could be used in a small knurler like ours - Thanks!

 

[Hazegry]

does anyone know of a good knurler that will work with a taig lathe? I just started and want to make some thumb screws for my lathe and a few other tools

 

[David Kirtley]

I reccomend one like mine or Mikey's. They don't stress the cross slide as much. Mine was like $35-$40 with three sets of knurls. There are plans around for making them but unless you are going to go fancy like Mikey's, by the time you get the knurls, it will not cost that much more for the complete unit.

 

[Hazegry]

David where did you get yours?

 

[mikey]

Mine is just functional, Dave. I agree that a scissors knurler is definitely the way to go on a small lathe; they don't stress the spindle bearings, make great knurls and its easy to regulate knurl pressure. When buying knurls be sure you get some with a beveled edge like those in Dave's pics. It makes axial knurling much easier. Also look at Ray C's post on the Accu-trak knurls - I have to look into those.

As an aside, have you guys ever tried Everbrite? It's a paint-like coating you can put on any metal that acts like a clear coat. I have brass and aluminum knobs and items that don't tarnish or discolor with that stuff on it. Some of them are maybe 6-8 years old and look like new. A small can will coat a lot of knobs! Cheap, simple to use, and it works! Maybe have a look here: http://www.everbrite.net/. Supposedly, the coat lasts about 10 years or so and so far it looks like it just might.