Acetal / Delrin cross slide lead screw nut.

Dranreb

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I think there is a thread about doing this on here but can't find it, If anyone knows where it is, would they be kind enough to post a link in this thread?

Having read about the Delrin method of making new nuts I thought I'd give it a go, as I had a lump of Acetal handy, my first attempt had alignment issues..

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My second idea was to drill the hole, hacksaw the block in half, but stop the cut at a point which would leave the spigot part whole. Then I wound the screw in which forced the halves apart, I was much more careful with the heat this time and it was successful. I used a spare worn screw.

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After the melting and taking it off the screw, I tapped a knife into the cut to open it, then used the screw with a ground flat on the first thread to clean the thread so that is turned the full length easily.

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Using a tight fitting drill for alignment I turned the sides and end face to be square with the screw.

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Only very slightly loosening two jaws, I swapped ends it in the chuck, I drilled and tapped the center, I drilled right into the lead screw hole as I wanted to use a much longer fixing screw as I didn't thrust the spigot not to snap off, this way it is just a spacer.

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I put a screw in the hole before turning the spigot to stiffen it and avoid flexing, I thought had hacksawed too far but you can see there was just enough uncut left if I made the spigot a tad longer than the original one, more careful measuring here is the only thing I will do differently when I make another for my turret slide.

Two holes then drilled for self tappers, I opened up the top part for clearance, putting a hack saw blade in the slot as a stop to prevent drilling into the bottom half, and countersunk them.

Rounded off the end with an angle grinder and finished it by hand filing.

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It only took a morning and I now have absolutely zero backlash!

It works OK dry but with lube it's silky smooth...way to go guys, get it done!!!

Bernard

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The way I remember the write up the guy used the old half nut, bored it out, fit durlin into the old half nut bored it out so it was somewhat smaller bore than the lead screw ( I think it was 1/2 the depth of the threads) put it on the lead screw and heated the lead screw while clamping. (do that make since to you? Hard for me to explain with words. Try a goggle search for half nut fix should find the write up.
 
I realize it's not the total DIY route, but....

When I was building my first CNC router/engraver/mini mill, I wanted no backlash (or super minimal!) to contend with, but didn't want the expense of ball screws.
So, I went with these: http://www.dumpstercnc.com/acme_menu.html

They're still in there, and work great! Just make sure that you have NO burrs or sharp bits on your screws or you'll eat them alive in no time.
 
Hope I don't get into trouble here, but this thread (from another board) has a ton of information on this subject. Makes me want to try it for my cross slide nut as it's got plenty of slop.
 
Hope I don't get into trouble here, but this thread (from another board) has a ton of information on this subject. Makes me want to try it for my cross slide nut as it's got plenty of slop.

Thanks Smudgemo, that's the original source, i felt sure it has been discussed on here though..

I've been using it quite a bit and found one problem, because I thought a longer nut would be better, I did not pay too much attention to matching the length to the original one, this means that the nut is too wide to sit on the un-threaded part of the screw that stops the top slide from hitting the carriage under power. So a little more work needed there.

The new nut is such a good match to the screw profile that it feels tight as it rubs on the un-threaded part of the screw, which the old one didn't.

I need to make another nut to fit my turret slide, which I use with my milling attachment, I think I may open up the hole in the slide to allow me to make a bigger nut spigot for added strength.

Bernard
 
Hi Bernard - nice to see the idea in action:thumbsup:

So I can order the correct stuff, how thick was your acetal sheet to begin with(I don't want to dismantle my cross feed until I have the sheet in my clutches).

Robin
 
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Hi Bernard - nice to see the idea in action:thumbsup:

So I can order the correct stuff, how thick was your acetal sheet to begin with(I don't want to dismantle my cross feed until I have the sheet in my clutches).

Robin

Hi Robin, i ordered 22mm thick for pulley making, but 22.5 arrived, they must've been out of stock or summat, the extra is thickness useful because it gives some leeway when melting..

Off topic, but remember me saying Atlas lathes don't like tungsten carbide tools? Well now I've got it all nice and tight, I reground a tc tool and now it cuts really well, and fast, no chatter till I pushed the cut to .110 on CRS so not bad after all.

Be sure to keep us updated..

Bernard
 
Forgot to mention the headache free way to arrive at the cut line for the spigot end is to put the old and new nuts together on the screw, and scribe. Accuracy is quite important to avoid binding in the nut as it nears the front, so best to sneak up on it...

Bernard
 
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