1940 South Bend 11" 111B 105014 IQR Rebuild By Ulma Doctor

http://evaporust.com/ I've heard about it but it's too $$ for me. Elbow grease, degreaser, and Acetone have been working fine for me buuuut..... I just picked up a quart of Citristrip and will try that on my headstock. I've heard good about it and it was only $11 for the quart so a little more than a quart of Acetone but if it works as good as I've heard it'll be money well spent.
 
I promised some pictures of the new electrolytic rust removal tank, here they are!

if you click on the individual pictures different resolutions are available!!!

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i'm adding 1 cup of Washing Soda for 10 gallons+/- of water!

i'll post the results!

thanks for your continued interest in the project!!!!

photo.JPG Carbonelectrolytic2.JPG Carbonelectrolytic3.JPG Carbonelectrolytic4.JPG photo.JPG
 
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Re: 1940 South Bend 11" 111B 105014 IQR Rebuild By Ulma Doctor

http://evaporust.com/ I've heard about it but it's too $$ for me. Elbow grease, degreaser, and Acetone have been working fine for me buuuut..... I just picked up a quart of Citristrip and will try that on my headstock. I've heard good about it and it was only $11 for the quart so a little more than a quart of Acetone but if it works as good as I've heard it'll be money well spent.

Thats more expensive than Vaporust :) whatever you decide. gives me more time to work on other stuff and does a better job than by hand any day..

Check out this thread by autonoz:

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/11382-Picked-this-Logan-up-today



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thanks Chuck!!
i've only heard of the stuff...never seen it!
you got me curious now...
does it come off easily for painting?
do you rinse it off with water??

water would work. actually when you get done with it, you could pour it down the drain.. epa okay.

It last a long time, but eventually will get neturalized thru use. Just got my bucket of it, so I don't know how long. Still looks clear though.

bare metal: hose it off with water.. flush with WD 40 (buy the gallon with the pump bottle), blow it off, oil.

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I just dropped some more big parts in the bucket.. I will post some pics in a couple days..

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I promised some pictures of the new electrolytic rust removal tank, here they are!

if you click on the individual pictures different resolutions are available!!!

View attachment 51600View attachment 51601View attachment 51602View attachment 51603
View attachment 51604

i'm adding 1 cup of Washing Soda for 10 gallons+/- of water!

i'll post the results!

thanks for your continued interest in the project!!!!

I made this one that worked pretty good... real big plastic bucket. The metal strips are 2" X 1/4 steel.

Will be interested in what your rods look like after use.

You can reverse polority using a doner hunk of material and clean them off.

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I use expanded metal for my electolysis with very good results. I can get a tremendous amount of area for the current to travel.
 
Hello friends,
i've been busy as a beaver at workand haven't had a lot of time for posting.
i've been enjoying the Carbon Rod Electrolytic process. it' super simple and effective.

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thanks for following!
I'll post more when my workload lightens.

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Re: 1940 South Bend 11" 111B 105014 IQR Rebuild By Ulma Doctor

Thats more expensive than Vaporust :) whatever you decide. gives me more time to work on other stuff and does a better job than by hand any day..

I didn't know Evaporust came in quarts and was suprised to see it for around $8/quart. So yeah, it is cheaper than Citristrip. BTW, I've finally tried electrolysis and am extremely pleased with my results on my headstock. For now I say to heck with Evaporust, Citristrip, and purple Zep..... give me Splatrolysis! :D
 
Don't know how I missed this thread this long. Musta had my head buried in work and a bport project. Congrats on the neat project. I'm glad my father had some evapo to donate as I hadn't seen rust removed with your method. Copper fouling in pistol barrels, but no idea about it's ability to remove rust. More of your knowledge I will claim for my own muah ha ha ha (evil chuckle). Thanks again for your motor help. It's now vfd'ed up and purring like a kitten.
 
Re: 1940 South Bend 11" 111B 105014 IQR Rebuild By Ulma Doctor

I didn't know Evaporust came in quarts and was suprised to see it for around $8/quart. So yeah, it is cheaper than Citristrip. BTW, I've finally tried electrolysis and am extremely pleased with my results on my headstock. For now I say to heck with Evaporust, Citristrip, and purple Zep..... give me Splatrolysis! :D


I mainly use Evaporust for tooling and areas/parts on the lathe I shouldn't bead blast.. inside the apron, pulleys and shafts etc.. I only bead blast surfaces I am going to paint. The paint sticks to clean, bead blasted surfaces as good as it gets. Painting over electrolysis or even Evaporust.. I don't know. IMO, I think it would take more than acetone to prep the surface.

A neat trick with evaporust is to get some PVC of the right diameter/length with an end cap and slide your shafts, lead screw etc for derusting. Saw this in another thread. I plan to try it.
 
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Re: 1940 South Bend 11" 111B 105014 IQR Rebuild By Ulma Doctor

I mainly use Evaporust for tooling and areas/parts on the lathe I shouldn't bead blast.. inside the apron, pulleys and shafts etc.. I only bead blast surfaces I am going to paint. The paint sticks to clean, bead blasted surfaces as good as it gets. Painting over electrolysis or even Evaporust.. I don't know. IMO, I think it would take more than acetone to prep the surface.

I thoroughly clean any parts for painting with Acetone and haven't had a problem from this yet. I just looked at the first coat on the headstock I put on yesterday and it appears fine and normal. We'll see how it goes.
 
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