1940 South Bend 11" 111B 105014 IQR Rebuild By Ulma Doctor

That compound has definitely seen better days. If you decide it's time to retire it I think Joe at Plaza Machinery has a compound for an 11" - http://www.plazamachinery.com/ Just look through his "Metalworking machinery list" to see what's available. I've done business with him in the past and he's been good to deal with. I'm told that he does have some health issues and isn't always the quickest to return inquiries though.

-Ron
 
The spindle bearings look good and the caps have shims so they can be adjusted. That's a good thing.
 
That compound has definitely seen better days. If you decide it's time to retire it I think Joe at Plaza Machinery has a compound for an 11" - http://www.plazamachinery.com/ Just look through his "Metalworking machinery list" to see what's available. I've done business with him in the past and he's been good to deal with. I'm told that he does have some health issues and isn't always the quickest to return inquiries though.

-Ron
thanks Ron for the parts source!

i'm going to attempt the compound repair by brazing to fill up the lows, then draw file, sand and paint.
the process will be detailed in another posting as the thread progresses.

thank you Ron and to all, for all your input, as well as your continued interest in Henrietta...
 
The spindle bearings look good and the caps have shims so they can be adjusted. That's a good thing.

thanks Greg,
the shims are brass, and they are .001" thick each, an ingenious method of reducing the journal clearance quickly.
although there are limitations, the bearing surface becomes oval as a result of wear and how the bearings are pinched together.
of course it will literally take in the order of hundreds of thousands of revolutions, possibly millions to wear the old girl out .
i have been told in many ways from many people the importance of lubing your machinery EVERYTIME you use it.
enough of the soap box :soapbox:...

i was more than a little relieved when i took the spindle caps off and the sight below was very nice.
there was still liquid oil present on the spindle journals as well as the caps.
the pictures are showing dark bands on the spindle, but this is not the case in natural light.
i'm not sure as to why the iphone's camera picked them up . the journals are as smooth as glass, no ridging or no bumps:thumbsup:
boy am i glad i didn't fall into the Need a Headstock Pit!!
thanks again Greg!
 
i disassembled the lathe into subgroups:
1, Drive Motor Assembly
2, Carriage/Apron/Compound Assemblies, removed as an assembly.
3, Taper attachment
4, Tailstock
5 ,Headstock, is still assembled on lathe bed
6, Lower countershaft assembly
7, Accessories and Goodies
Rusted parts 2.JPG

Rusted parts 2.JPG
 
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i also wanted to echo many previous postings by others with a recipe for Col. Ed's Red Antirust
1 part Automatic Transmission Fluid
1 part Kerosene
1 part Mineral Spirits
1 part Acetone

Mix and apply to parts to be protected, be cautious the mix is most likely flammable and it has a paint removal quality!
 
i was going to spend the late afternoon working on Henrietta until a got the call for a special build ,for a special customer...:soldier1:
my 2 1/2 yr old son Mike Jr....
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Yeah, sure it took a grueling 15 minutes to trick this mad scooter out. it was worth every second of it:saluteflag:
lubed with mobil 1 synthetic grease. i even used high speed wheel retaining cotter pins rather than the stock internal star retainers. I figure that you'll never see the star type retainers used at Bonneville, why on earth would i use them on this high speed sled . i cross drilled the 10mm axle to accept a 1/8" stainless steel cotter, figuring with the solid wheels and the wedge i put on the outside rear, we should be top 3 at Taledega. if we get a good run, may even take Michigan. if i ditch the small wedge an go for 2" we'll stay in the groove. But i think NASTRIKE inspectors are gonna see the extra fuel tank i embedded inside the frame. we had sit out for 4 races last time.... dang, i hope they don't jack it up in tech:rofl:

thanks for reading the special job notes from the shop, my pleasure as always.

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Yes, that is the MOST important build. The 3 and 4 wheel builds don't last long, they disappear for a decade, and when they come back, the only emotion they inspire is fear!

Always good to see those men who love their toys, but still put first what SHOULD come first.
 
thank you for the info Roncoo!
Swarf inside the motor is a bad thing .
A chip guard or screens would prevent nasty stuff getting in for sure!
 
I haven't had a lot to write about about the project worth summarizing at this point. i'm doing a lot of degreasing and electrolytic rust removal.
kinda boring stuff, but i'll show some pictures...

click on the picture for a slightly better detail!

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there are a lot of parts being cleaned up, i'll put more detail into the next postings.
As always thanks for reading!

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