16" to move, repaint or not

If you have a sams club nearby they have a 3 pack or grill cleaner that is 3 quarts with a hand pump sprayer for about 9 bucks.

This stuff is oven cleaner and it will strip the paint and anything else.

Carefully remove all of the nameplates so they will keep their paint then one part at a time you can spray the cleaner on and let it soak then scrub a bit then rinse.

Did our 14.5 and it had layers of crud and paint and we got it to bare metal.

You can use bond for large areas or get the filler that looks like tooth paste that is used for auto body paint work.

We used rust olium shadow gray from lowes as their version thins with acetone the home depot stuff with thinner.

Apply many layers and it will build up and smooth the finish.

Lots of threads regarding the finish.

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I've had success stripping old dried oil off ways and other parts using a spray bottle of plain old diesel and a variety of scrubbing pads- ranging from green sponges to scotchbright, to cast iron stove top screen, to- 600 grit emery cloth. Sometimes alternate with rust remover, then flush with diesel. Then wipe down and clean up with acetone, followed by paint thinner. The thinner usually acts as a cleaner to lift any remaining debris off the lathe. This sequence is kind of complicated. But, you'll be doing multiple passes anyways to get all the old gunk off. Each treatment addresses a different need : dried oil, flash rust, oil base enamel paint, finally trace debris left over from cleaning.

Then the fun starts with undercoater and top coat of your choice!

Figure on a couple of months of time to repaint everything if you disassemble to the level of small parts- there's a lot of stuff bolted onto the bed of a lathe!

Glenn
 
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