1236 Questions

Nice selection... thanks. McMaster also has a decent selection. Obviously there is no shortage of these things. Decisions, decisions, decisions :wink:

One thing I noticed is the standard press fit bb oilers, at least the ones I've seen online so far, have a flange at the top. Now that I understand this more, I'll need to remove one to see if it has a flange or what the problem is. Good info.
 
Finally got around to removing the two sunken bb-oilers on the compound. As I expected, one took much less effort to remove and after taking measurements, the hole was ever so slightly larger as well. But I suspect both holes are slightly larger than they should be. Next I removed the ball and spring from the housing... the ball and spring are steel but the housing itself wasn't magnetic at all so I'm assuming it's brass.

Removing them didn't go well with a knife blade but one particular dental type pick did the trick. Attaching a picture of Harbor Freight 93514 which looks similar to what I have and circled the end I used as well. What's nice is the angle and tip let you hook the oiler and pull straight up.

The ones from Grizzly are exactly the same as mine... a (soft) brass housing (which won't grip as well as a steel) and no flange (which would keep them from sinking). So I'm going to try out the Metric Ball Valve Oilers from Gitz Mfg which have a nickel plated steel housing (6.1mm) and a flange (6.5mm).

Thanks for the help.



HF93514 Hook and Pick Set.jpg
 
Like a bad dream, I'm back for more help o_O

To make a long story short... I probably drove Matt nuts changing my DRO selection for both the 932 and 1236. Exchanged the ES-8 for the ES-12 for the 932... and I'm good there... but had to do without a DRO for the 1236 until today. Thought I would install it tonight but I'm missing either (a) a part for the install or (b) a part of my brain. A missing part is likely since Matt and I exchanged items several times, but I can't find a picture of one installed to know (only those where an aftermarket DRO and/or bracket was used). Can someone post a pic of their stock install? Thanks
 
Does your display have the stud mounted on the back of it? Shoot me a pic of what you do have and I will check it out.

Also, those Gits oilers are better than the stock oilers. I do like them.

But if you end up needing the stock ones, I have spares in each size. Just let me know when you are stopping by so I can have them out for you. But never, ever order Grizzly parts for a PM Machine, the PM Lathe will reject them and spit them out :grin:

For removal, yes the drywall screw usually works, or an EZ Out, something like that. If you replace with the stock brass ones, if you peen the end of them over a bit before installation, that usually helps. 95% of the time, the spring just slips out, it is just not folded over enough on the end to keep it in. But a little work before installing them usually fixes that.

https://www.dutton-lainson.com/products.php?cat=53 I have had good luck with some of these oil cans. None of them ever seem to fit perfectly, but usually they work OK. Made in USA Too, even though we sell machinery from all over the world, I do prefer made in USA, when possible!
 
Yeah, it has the same pivot stud on the back... exactly like the one on the 932 DRO... but there were no separate brackets, etc. in the box. Checked online and it looks like the DRO gets attached to the top of the headstock cover. There are two unused pre-tapped holes there, but the thread on the pivot stud is too large. So apparently I'm missing either an adapter or some sort of bracket. That's when I checked online again to see what they use and/or if it uses the same bracket/arm as on the 932, but couldn't find a single clue. Any pics of the DRO had stuff laying on the headstock cover blocking the view. What can I say... I have stuff on mine as well. Let me know and I can always stop down to pick up whatever.

For now I stuck a couple pieces of tape over the two holes where I removed the brass oilers. I thought McMaster had steel replacements, but when I placed my order today I noticed they didn't have them in metric. I'll try and find the Gits but I don't like the local Fastenal store so I'll check online first. But if I'm coming down your place anyway I might as well get a couple oilers and do what you suggested. Funny cause Grizzly tells their customers not to get PM oilers because the Grizzly will just devour them. :eek:

I never would have thought of using drywall screws if Steve hadn't suggested them. The dental pics I used worked much better than I expected but I also have several boxes of drywall screws... something you tend to accumulate when you're working on the inside of the house. Next time I remove any oilers I'll try out the screws... I'm all for whichever works the best.

I actually purchased an oil can with a flex spout from McMaster a while back when I noticed the cheap ones were... well... still cheap :wink: Sometimes you don't know what you're actually going to get from McMaster (i.e. Brand) but I've never been disappointed. I received a very nice Goldenrod oiler with a flex spout. Works well and doesn't leak at all. I read where some people put a short piece of rubber hose on the end as a cushion and to keep the tip from pushing the ball too far into the oiler. One person suggested clear tubing so you can also see what you're doing.

It's going to be a while before I get good at this but I've learned a lot already thanks to this forum... and YouTube since I like videos :grin big:
 
Picked up the correct ES-12 bracket for my lathe. Glad I didn't waste my time making one since this was a nice one piece black with oblong base and curved shaft. Also several replacement ball oilers but like I thought they're not tight enough. Easily pushed out from the bottom with a small drill bit so I'll peen the ends and reinstall later today. The GIT versions with a flange should take care of the problem permanently. Back to the workshop to practice threading.
 
65Cobra427SC said:
Jerry... at this point I haven't used it to actually make anything so take the following with a grain of salt.

The levelers are adjusted so the height of the cabinet is on the lower side but I didn't want to make it any lower in case I had to make any further adjustments later. I'm 5'7" and the center of the chuck is about 4' 1" up from the floor... which is right below my chest. Maybe mark that height on a wall, or wherever, to see what you think. Personally I think it's fine. It looks like it will let me sit on a stool, but even if I stand I can see what I'm doing without hunching over all the time.

02/24/2016: Now that I've done more with the 1236, I take back what I said above. The lathe IS too high so I plan to build a large platform out of wood to stand on. I needed to eventually put something over the hard concrete floor anyway and now it will need to add some height as well. Sorry if I mislead anyone.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the update, I have just purchased a PM1236 from Matt after much thought, research and dithering and since I intend to use Foot Master leveling casters, Matt suggested that I add a tubular steel frame before mounting the casters. Your design #5 and picture looks like just what I need and since I'm only an inch taller than you the need for platform is good information. This site and particularly the PM fora have helped me learn a lot
 
I used to be an inch taller but age took care of that :(

Design #5 was actually Matt's idea... it made sense so I went with it. And it doesn't require any welding which can be a plus for some people. I only live 30 minutes from their place which is really nice. I needed a replacement drawbar for my PM932 (didn't realize mine was damaged) emailed him one day and picked it up the next morning along with the missing DRO bracket for my PM1236. Everyone there has been really nice and I couldn't say enough good about them.

Those Foot Master levelers look really nice and from what I've read people seem like them a lot so you made a good choice. And wow, I just noticed they actually have them in stainless steel... my weakness and metal of choice whenever possible :wink:
 
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