1236 Operational Questions

[Mitch Alsup]

You don't really need a power disconnect or extra switch. I put each of the 220 volt machines on a dedicated circuit, when I'm done using the lathe I just flip the breaker off.

Which would be great, if the breaker box (i.e., panel) was not outside and around the corner of the shop in rain and snow.

 

[SSage]

Install a sub panel inside, thats what we did. Got a used 200 amp Square D panel mounted by the door, it was full of breakers too. Check craigs list and eBay for used panels. Makes it easy to add more circuits in the shop, you feed it with one large cable, cuts down on multiple long runs of smaller wire. Since installing the shop panel my 80 gallon compressor starts much quicker. Less line loss for sure, easy access to the breakers inside the shop. The local electric company engineer and an electrician friend helped us with the design and wire sizes. We upgraded the house power too, running the electric clothes dryer, air conditioning, a lathe and an air compressor etc. at the same time was really taxing the original house breaker. Our power company hooked up additional meter can for zero cost, they charged us nothing for the upgrade. We now have two 200 amp meters/breakers feeding the house on separate cables from the transformer. We were maxing out the cable from the pole. The monthly added meter fee is cheap. Now we can add a pool and sauna someday! We don't pull the house lights down when the compressor kicks on anymore. I was expecting the power co to charge for install but, they even set a new pole and cleared brush for free. The house service is all new, they disconnected us for about an hour to run new cables to the new pole. Maybe its a rural thing, we live out in the sticks.

 

[Bob Korves]

Circuit breakers are not designed for being switched often. They will often wear out and fail relatively quickly when operated often. The physical flexing can also be damaging to the breaker connections to the bus bars. Let the breakers do the simple job they do so well and add a proper switch downstream for switching loads on and off regularly.

 

[Fallon]

There are breakers that are rated to be used as switches as well as breakers. Don't remember the letter designation offhand.

Not a big deal if you use a breaker as a switch at the machine if there is a proper breaker panel upstream. If the "switch" wears out just replace it. If your primary circuit protection wears out that can be problematic.

 

[Muskt]

I have always been kinda-sorta anal about electricity & fire. I have each of my 220 machines near a dedicated 220 outlet. When I use the lathe (PM1236), I plug it in. When I am done, I unplug it. Same for the mill (PM932). With my welders & plasma cutter, only one can be plugged in at a time. I have a shared (single) 220 outlet for my 2x72 grinder and/or my big air compressor--Only one at a time.

My PM1236 has been modded to a VFD & 3phase motor. I don't even have the light anymore. I don't need it, since I unplug it every night or at the completion of every use.

Jerry in Delaware

 

[ACHiPo]

Nothing like having an EMO (emergency off) handy. Wished I had one when I heard the crunching sound in the quick change gear box.

 

[SSage]

My breakers have held up fine. I don't use cheap residential grade stuff though.

 

[Gerry]

I have a PM-1340. Because of my shop size I left only 20" between it and the wall. 24" would have been better but 36" would have been wasting valuable shop space. My headstock is 24" from a different wall and I sometimes wish that I had 36" gap there. In fact I wish that my shop layout would have allowed me to have the tailstock to the wall instead of the headstock..

I used my lathe for years without the brake and switch being functional. About the only time I use the brake is when I am using a tap with my tailstock to tap something held in the chuck.

One thing that bothers me about my lathe, though-mounting the chuck with the D1-4 setup is not as accurate as I think it should be. When the chuck is mounted it rest on the cone in the headstock shaft it leaves a gap all the way around between the chuck and the flange on the headstock shaft. That allows the chuck to pivot on the cone throwing the chuck out of true. Its like the cone on the headstock is slightly too big or it's mating cones on all my chucks is slightly too small. Just have not worked up the nerve to reduce the headstock cone ever so slightly of fear of going too far.

Been almost 10 years since I bought my PM-1340 from Matt but have been totally pleased with it and the service from Matt. I hope you are as pleased with yours as I am with mine.

 

[Bob Korves]

One thing that bothers me about my lathe, though-mounting the chuck with the D1-4 setup is not as accurate as I think it should be. When the chuck is mounted it rest on the cone in the headstock shaft it leaves a gap all the way around between the chuck and the flange on the headstock shaft. That allows the chuck to pivot on the cone throwing the chuck out of true. Its like the cone on the headstock is slightly too big or it's mating cones on all my chucks is slightly too small. Just have not worked up the nerve to reduce the headstock cone ever so slightly of fear of going too far.

That is very common and can be addressed. First, find out where it is rubbing and where it is not. You can use high spot blue, Canode scraping ink, or just a Sharpie to mark it up, then install and remove the chuck carefully. Look closely for where it is currently making contact. The angle is very small, and the contact area is also very small, so you must be careful to not remove very much at a time, and only where you see it rubbing hardest. It will go faster than you think it will, do not get carried away. This does not need a fancy machining setup, some 220 grit paper rolled around a stick will do the work. Just go slowly and carefully, and only remove material where it is currently rubbing hard. The fit will gradually improve. Continue until you can seat the chuck (or whatever) with no light passing through the spindle to back plate junction. Use a bright light behind it to check for gaps around the full revolution. It must end up tight on the register, and tight against the spindle, with no side play, at the same time. If you go too far, you will get lateral runout, a bad thing. If you do not go far enough, your cone leaning error will continue. When you are done, check all three mounting positions for the best one, accuracy wise, and then mark the chuck and spindle so you can mount it the same every time.