118 Vs 135 Drill Bits

Pmedic828

Pmedic828

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I am a self taught 60+ year old that wants to learn machining. I have a mini mill 3 in 1 machine and am tired of cheap drill bits. I wanted to purchase 1 115 piece screw drill (short because of the distance from my table to the chuck) of my mill. This 118 vs 135 vs split point vs ? is getting confusing. I am mostly going to drill mystery metal that is probably CRS or HRS, wood, and some aluminum. I can't see as good as I could so sharpening will be attempted but probably won't be perfect. I have resharpened some older drill bits and seem to get them to cut with curls somewhat equally and feed easily.
What do you recommend, 118 or 135 degree. These will probably be only 1 set of short drills and considering my age, they don't need to last 60 years, but I would like to invest in something that will last me 20 years hopefully. I sharpen by hand with just a 1 inch belt sander with silicon carbide or a 60 to 100 grit bench grinder. Hopefully you won't get into much detail but tell me the better of the 2 angles considering the above. Respects and thanks!
 
What you probably should look into is a Stub, (Screw machine length), drill. They come in both 118 and 135. If your drilling harder steels a 135 can be a better choice. Most of the time 118's are just fine. 135's can also have a split point,this requires a little more effort to hand sharpen correctly. I use both.
 
I would say you need both jobber and screw length . But 135* split points (stub,screw) are magic . I never owned a complete set , I would just buy the ones I needed usually in a multiple pack . But that was back in the day that I had my shop and was doing production . I still have some left over , I love my #7 for drilling a hole for a 1/4-20 tap !
 
I am having trouble with that link, anyone else?
 
Pmedic, have a look at this article: http://www.newmantools.com/machines/drillpoint.html

As an aside, I sharpened my own bits for many years on a bench grinder but got a Drill Doctor as a gift about 10 years ago and I haven't the grinder since. It is difficult to get both lip angles of the drill even, let alone maintain the exact same clearance angle on both sides. This is especially true on smaller drills, which is what I use most often, so I like this Drill Doctor. It makes it easier for me to get consistent results. It also allows me to flatten the included angle so I can grind a 118 tip to the flatter and easier cutting 135 tip, and I can also split the point if I choose.

I have a Precision Twist Drill 115 piece screw machine drill set and love it. Triumph, Chicago Latrobe, Cleveland, Titex are other brands I have that I really like.
 
mikey said:
Pmedic, have a look at this article: http://www.newmantools.com/machines/drillpoint.html

As an aside, I sharpened my own bits for many years on a bench grinder but got a Drill Doctor as a gift about 10 years ago and I haven't the grinder since. It is difficult to get both lip angles of the drill even, let alone maintain the exact same clearance angle on both sides. This is especially true on smaller drills, which is what I use most often, so I like this Drill Doctor. It makes it easier for me to get consistent results. It also allows me to flatten the included angle so I can grind a 118 tip to the flatter and easier cutting 135 tip, and I can also split the point if I choose.

I have a Precision Twist Drill 115 piece screw machine drill set and love it. Triumph, Chicago Latrobe, Cleveland, Titex are other brands I have that I really like.
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Exactly, Mikey. Using my Drill Doctor 750 stops much of the squinting at small drills to see if they are correct, and is much faster as well. But when I have one bigger than 3/4" to grind, it is back to the bench grinder and drill point gage. You are also correct about the 135 degree points and splitting the points. Those are really useful and easily done on a DD like my 750.
 
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