New Clausing 6913 - Gear box engagement lever fixed!!!!

Well darn. No blueprint on the steady rest. They sent me a parts breakdown thats a little different than the one in the owners manual but it has no dimesions. Where would I post about seeing if a member here has one that I could chat with on? Maybe get some detailed measurements from??? Any other ideas????
 
Well a steady rest just popped up on ebay!!!! So i bought it. I swear I saw the listing before, but had a different listing header. If someone on here saw this post and amended their auction, thank you. :)
 
I got my steady rest in and it was damaged in shipping:-( He is willing to refund my money if I send it back to him but I kind of want to keep it since they seem to be hard to find. Anybody have an idea of a good way for a dummy(myself) to repair this if I do end up keeping it???


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I've had a lot of broken items bought thru Ebay. People generally don't use enough packing.
Looks like brazing would be your best bet to repair it.
Mark
 
Anybody have an idea of a good way for a dummy(myself) to repair this if I do end up keeping it???

It looks to have a rust line half-way thru the break, suggesting it may have been cracked earlier and just "finished off" in shipping.

Other than that it looks like a nice clean break, I would braze it.
Oxy-acetylene torch and flux-coated bronze rods.

basically:
grind a v-groove from one side (leave enough of the original edges to line it up well)
find a way to hold it flat,
heat both parts evenly (the big part will suck more heat away)
apply filler rod until it's slightly proud of the surface
grind or mill away excess filler

I usually find that the bronze also flow wells to the "down" side to fill the little crack there.

If you want to go all out, figure out a way to pre-heat and slow, post cooling.....but I bet it's not required.
(I have used a charcoal barbeque grill for both, just let it burn out overnight for slow cool)

There are a couple great threads here on brazing.
PM me if you cannot find them.

-brino
 
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It looks to have a rust line half-way thru the break, suggesting it may have been cracked earlier and just "finsihed off" in shipping.

Other than that it looks like a nice clean break, I would braze it.
Oxy-acetylene torch and flux-coated bronze rods.

basically:
grind a v-groove from one side (leave enough of the original edges to line it up well)
find a way to hold it flat,
heat both parts evenly (the big part will suck more heat away)
apply filler rod until it's slightly proud of the surface
grind or mill away excess filler

I usually find that the bronze also flow wells to the "down" side to fill the little crack there.

If you want to go all out, figure out a way to pre-heat and slow, post cooling.....but I bet it's not required.
(I have used a charcoal barbeque grill for both, just let it burn out overnight for slow cool)

There are a couple great threads here on brazing.
PM me if you cannot find them.

-brino
I saw the rust and thought the same thing. This sucks(for both involved) Im not sure what to do. Will look into brazing it and milling it down if i keep it. Thank you.
 
I totally agree with brino. I also think it was already cracked and shipping broke the rest of it. Same thing happened to me. Bought a Levin lathe on auction. When I got it, the cast head stock cover was busted up. Then I closely looked at the sellers pics and noticed it was already cracked. The seller lied and his pics proved it! I kept the lathe and the Insurance money was helpful. Made a new cover. All is well now.
Your seller should be obliging. Point it out to the seller/person that it was already cracked. And what about insurance money.
I would mill a slot into the good part and make a new ear to fit the slot and look like the original ear. Then use flat head allen screws to hold the new ear to the slot in the good part. A little bondo and paint...good as new. This way, no heat! Maybe stronger! Good Luck…Dave
 
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The part that broke is cast iron. It may well have been cracked at the time of shipping. Because of the hole drilled in it for the pivot screw or pin, it is the weakest part of the joint. What I would do is to mill a slot in the damaged end of the upper piece with width the same as the thickness of the part that broke off. And about 1/2" deep. Then make a replacement for the broken off part out of steel bar. Mill 1/8" x 45 deg. bevels all around the slot. And silver solder the replacement into the slot. Should then be stronger than the original.
 
Decided to tear the apron apart to try and fix an oil leak from the lead screw which was bothering me so i thought I'd throw it out here.
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Here is where the leak was coming from(not the open cover, rather where the lead screw goes through the worm gear(worm gear is not in this pic)

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The passage in the bottom of the hole in this pic was full of debris, sludge, tiny metal filings etc. From what it appeared to me its the oil return possible to return the main cavity in the apron.

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The opposite side has a similar passage.

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The worm gear and bushing.
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The bushing has a hole in the bottom for oil to drain into the passage. It was plugged also(yes there is wear on the items in the picture)
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This was the close to the amount of gap between the worm gear and bushing when it was installed. Approximately .075 give or take.
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The worm gear, bushing, and the apron itself all have wear in them. New parts would just sit against worn edges and wear quicker. My plan it to make a new longer bushing and cut a close taper to match the end of the worm gear, and then cut a tapered shim for the other end and let the worm gear ride on a bushing rather than the apron itself. The bushing I plan to make will be longer so I have some room for adjustment as it wears down the road.

I have a small Sears and roebuck lathe(12x36 never played with it, or cleaned it up yet) Tried to make a bushing when the clausing was torn apart but it needs to be worked over a little and tighten it up(metal gibs, not the plastic ones,mainly) but it just wasnt working very well(and very slow) so I put the clausing back together and I am making the bushing on the clausing, for the clausing. Its going to work(in my head anyway) but I'm going off drawings now rather than have the part in my hand.

I didnt take all the gears and parts out of the apron as they all looked good. They spun well, didnt see any issues other than it needed washed out pretty bad. It hasnt been cleaned in a LOT of years I suspect.

Dont ask why the attachments below this are there. Im not sure what I did to make that happen!!!

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After all that cleaning, I wanted to run through the controls and when the cross slide or threading were engaged, the lead screw would stop turning. I was confused since I didnt tear it down far enough to put it back together wrong really. Everything spun freely, and everything was clean now. Really confused me. Took the QCGB cover off and ran the machine. The shaft kept spinning inside the box, but the lead screw quit turning. Then I noticed a tiny round object on the lead screw. Turned out to be a shear pin, and whoever put it in really made it fit well. It was very hard to see. The book shows a shear pin with a nut but this was different. Turned out to be a piece of bronze that fit very well had sheared. It now has a piece of brazing rod in it and works well. I didnt make it fit like the last guy did. I just mushroomed the ends a little so it is visible. Its nice to know if something gets jammed up it has that shear pin. I thought that the overiding clutch inside the gear engagement lever assembly was for that, but it isnt.

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