Brake cam and handle for Clausing 8520, 8525, 8530, 8535 mills

The "Beginners Projects" might be just the ticket for many of us who are trying to learn some new things plus it'll be things we can use like tools.
 
The handle arrived yesterday and I'll probably get it installed over the weekend.

Thanks so much TW for your work! It looks better in person too!
 
I did get the cam assy' installed today. I found the right thread setscrew in my box but I don't like the contact with the cam.
So I'll probably turn the end so it's more blunt and fits better into the cam slot and doesn't ruin the edge of the cam.
I'll also turn up a appropriate handle, maybe in aluminum and polish it out!

Thank You so much Terry! I think it's wonderful how you've helped me! ( and everyone else here ) You're a real asset to the site!
 
You might want to try putting a small piece of brass or nylon in the hole, under the set screw instead. I have been thinking about changing mine to a piece of plastic, and here is why: If the setscrew is too loose, the cam will vibrate and rattle at certain speeds. Drives ya nuts!! If the setscrew is just a hair too tight, it will keep the cam from vibrating but it can keep the cam from returning to the fully 'brake off' position, causing the brake plate to rub on the inside of the pulley, also making noise. I am thinking that putting a short piece of nylon in the hole first might help to resolve both problems, but am not sure at this point. Will have to try it and see what happens I guess.

If you use just a setscrew, you will need to use a second one behind the first, using it as a locking screw. If you don't the single setscrew will tend to loosen up with vibration.

Thanks for the kind words, but you must remember that my reason for being here is to share what I can as well as learn what I can. It's a two way street ya know!
 
Terrywerm - Just wanted you to know that your pdf was great for creating the brake cam for the 8520. I'm attaching a picture of my first attempt. I made the groove to deep. Just have to remember that .001 really means .002 metal removed. I got my v-blocks today, just need the new bearings for my 8520 mill. Also waiting on a bottoming tap for the handle.

IMG_2404.JPG
 
That looks pretty good, and thanks for the kind words about the drawings. Don't lose any sleep over the groove being too deep, it will not affect the part or its function in any way whatsoever. But, yes on most lathes, the crossfeed dial indicates the distance that the cutting tool has moved and the resulting change in radius, not the reduction in diameter. But, making this mistake on this part has taught you something that you will not soon forget, and you are now a better machinist for it.
 
Great thread - thanks for the drawing and the photos Terry! I have a recently acquired 8520 that came with the cam, handle, and brake plate all missing. Looks like a great (and not super-challenging) project. Does anyone have dimensions, drawings, photos, or anything else that might help me reproduce the plate? I understand the basic function, just need some specifics. BTW - I also have a Logan lathe, though mine came with Monkey Ward badging. I have the original paperwork from when my dad bought it new in 1946. He paid $206 for it, and it cost him $6 to have it shipped Railway Express from Chicago to Virginia. :)
 
I don't have dimensions for the plate, but will measure mine when I rebuild the head on mine, which will probably not occur until next winter. I will post them then, maybe sooner if things go right.

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pashooter said:
Great thread - thanks for the drawing and the photos Terry! I have a recently acquired 8520 that came with the cam, handle, and brake plate all missing. Looks like a great (and not super-challenging) project. Does anyone have dimensions, drawings, photos, or anything else that might help me reproduce the plate? I understand the basic function, just need some specifics. BTW - I also have a Logan lathe, though mine came with Monkey Ward badging. I have the original paperwork from when my dad bought it new in 1946. He paid $206 for it, and it cost him $6 to have it shipped Railway Express from Chicago to Virginia. :)
Click to expand...

So I just had my brake shoe welded. What I can tell you is that the head is the size of the inner bore, and the diameter is nearly the bore of the pulley.
I made a plug for the welder, so he could vee the weld. For the size I just took the measurement of the machined area on top of the head.
The brake is cast iron. It's slit, and has a hole 180 degrees from the slit, and a slit to the hole.
See: http://imgur.com/bczO4Uc
And : http://imgur.com/o4iuFsX
or see the whole thread using my link in the signature... there are other pics of it.
 
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