New New New...to Machining Metal

When you're visiting a scrap yard, carry a small file and a small magnet. If the file won't cut the piece of steel you are looking at, neither will your tools. I've ended up with some hardened steel before I started checking. The magnet can help answer the odd question about a piece of unknown metal.
 
Just a tip on end mills. Look at the cutting end of the tool, if it doesn't have 2 flutes that meet in the center it can't be used to plunge cut.
 
Just finished watching the Essential Machining Skills Videos. I have a dial indicator that measures .000 inch but it is an up and down type. I am guessing it isn't accurate enough. I have been measuring with a micrometer, marking with a grease pencil, and cutting with an ax forever. Time to start focusing on accuracy more. I have made some rough cuts to get the feel for feed speed and what a smooth or rough cuts sounds like. A tram and square setup is in the works before I try to tackle my intended project list which seems to be growing.

I am greatfull to everyone who has posted thus far and look forward to any and all advice. Thanks again!!!
 
Welcome to the forum and machining. Sorry, but now you're gonna be hooked. Remember my post when in 10-20 yrs you add up how much you've spent since that "first" mill. I've done a few 80% lowers on small mills and you should he fine on the HF mill. My only advice is to practice with it a bit first. This may sound silly, but just knowing which way the cut will be when you turn the wheel will avoid cutting errors when starting with a mill. Once it becomes second nature you'll have no problems. Most of all, have fun. Once you have a mill and a lathe, (or your second or third) you'll wonder how you could ever get by without them even as a hobbiest!
 
Just start making simple little things from scrap . Apply whats in those vids with Seat time. "Seat time" has always been huge in anything complex that i've ever learned. Tip---> There's alot of great youtube channels and great videos ...i've found myself watching too much video instead of making stuff...haha . And as i mentioned before, I see alot of great tool deals on NOS lots on ebay and then I think to myself "someone could really use this" , pm me if you'd like anything I see forwarded to you . (Fyi, I dont sell on ebay) I often see quality USA NOS stuff for half price and sometimes 75% less than retail .

The People on this forum are very helpful ...i've asked some VERY NOOB questions and no one laughed at me too much ...lol...everyone started somewhere ! ...and I mentioned before , start bringing your scrap to the small local scrap yards often . Get to know them, make friends if possible. They all react differently to "pickers" , but if you find one that's willing to let you pick some and buy outta the clip Aluminum bin then you're golden. Scrap yards are a gold mine for metal, and not rusty junk , it's often cutoffs from small fab shop production runs...often brand new metal 50-55 cents a pound . The pail below is about $20 ? The Vise was also scrap steel price. Then you can go to town practicing and making stuff . If you were in Northeast PA i'd be glad to get you the hook up where I go , but arizona is a bit far ...haha . Lastly , i'd work in aluminum a while and some mild steel learning ...I would avoid stainless a while . Good luck with it !
~Steve
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Subwayrocket said:
Just start making simple little things from scrap . Apply whats in those vids with Seat time. "Seat time" has always been huge in anything complex that i've ever learned. Tip---> There's alot of great youtube channels and great videos ...i've found myself watching too much video instead of making stuff...haha . And as i mentioned before, I see alot of great tool deals on NOS lots on ebay and then I think to myself "someone could really use this" , pm me if you'd like anything I see forwarded to you . (Fyi, I dont sell on ebay) I often see quality USA NOS stuff for half price and sometimes 75% less than retail .

The People on this forum are very helpful ...i've asked some VERY NOOB questions and no one laughed at me too much ...lol...everyone started somewhere ! ...and I mentioned before , start bringing your scrap to the small local scrap yards often . Get to know them, make friends if possible. They all react differently to "pickers" , but if you find one that's willing to let you pick some and buy outta the clip Aluminum bin then you're golden. Scrap yards are a gold mine for metal, and not rusty junk , it's often cutoffs from small fab shop production runs...often brand new metal 50-55 cents a pound . The pail below is about $20 ? The Vise was also scrap steel price. Then you can go to town practicing and making stuff . If you were in Northeast PA i'd be glad to get you the hook up where I go , but arizona is a bit far ...haha . Lastly , i'd work in aluminum a while and some mild steel learning ...I would avoid stainless a while . Good luck with it !
~Steve
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Good advice, I went to my local steel merchant today, only a small guy but he has quite a good scrap bin, pickd up a few good pieces $4 the lot, would probably have been $30 to $40 at normal price.

i normally go to a much larger place , but twice as
far away, but he has no cheapies, even the scrap bin is only about 10 or 15% off.
 
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Get some sharpie or marks a lot felt tip pens and pointed metal things like a sharp awl or sharpened drill rod.

Paint your target with the pen then scratch marks with the pointy scrube.

Make pointing bits as well.

This is simple in take a bad or broken cutter that fits in the collet that you are using and grind a point on it.

Place in a drill and hold against a grinder.

What this does is allows you to center on a mark.

Say you need to take a certian amount from an edge or drill exactly there.

Use pen to paint then scribe to mark the point for drilling hole or a line 1/2 the diameter of the bit away from the edge you need.

Place the pointed cutter in the mill and adjust table to place the point on your mark.

Now place cutter in and go.

Look for a DRO later and for now get a good dial indicator with long throw and a good magnetic holder system to allow yiu to measure table movement.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
Contrasts on your mill.

A few endmills will go a long ways as long as your using them right. I'd also suggest using a fly cutter. You can sharpen a piece of HSS or even use a cheep piece of brazed carbide in it.

As far as cutting oil goes the best recipe I have found is 10% kerosene/90% motor oil for steel & 90% kerosene/10% oil for aluminium. I really use any cutting oil for steel & usually just grab some Dextron III for aluminum because it's cheap & quick since I don't have to mix it. For kerosene win I use it I add some lime stone powder to it a week before I start messing with it to take the smell away.

I'm glad you got a proper vise. I used a drill press vise for a while. I trued it on the table & it always did a good job while I was cutting. But one day I went to put a piece in the vise & the end just fell off from the stress. All I could think about was how I was glad it didn't give way while I was in the cut. It didn't take long to decide to work a real vise into the budget.

Also keep a piece of aluminum wire by the mill. If you put it between your adjustable jaw & the work it will lock your piece in tight.
 
I would be interested in speaking with you as your project moves forward. I am thinking of working a 80% lower as well. I recently bought a milling attachment for my vintage South Bend lathe and looking to buy an Anderson lower with their jig kit. I figure I will use their jig for the critical side holes with my Commie built drill press and drill out the trigger well and use my lathe and attachment to mill and soothe the trigger group area. I have a small opening to clamp the lower and I am concerned with pressure on an AL casting. PM me if you wish to communicate as your project moves forward.
 
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