Recommendations For Grizzly Accessories For New G0602??

Thanks for all the tips. I'm sure I'll have more questions once I get it up and running.

A few questions:
Do you get your oils from Grizzly?

Paoldschool,
What's a "mighty mag"?

Fabricator,
90% of what I'll be doing with it requires no measurement at all, so I'll hold off on a DRO for now.

Glenn,
I have several bench grinders. But a quick google search didn't find wheels especially for HSS. Any suggestions how I can narrow my search?

Gerritv,
I'm confused about your comment about a separate oilcan for the headstock bearings. From the manual it looks like all ball oilers take an ISO 32 lube.

I already have a lot of the items mentioned. I should have mentioned I've been using a 1938 SB 9" for 30 years. But I've never cut threads. When I bought it the seller gave me a box of gears he said were change gears for threading. But they were just a bunch of random gears that didn't fit. By the time I figured it out he had left town.
 
I have had both piston and wedge type tool posts and much prefer the wedge.

I got my first order of oil from Grizzly. I think the current jugs are from Rural King. The gearbox takes Mobile DTE Heavy-Meadium, which is ISO-68 hydraulic oil. The ball oilers take ISO 32 hydraulic oil. You can get both from a variety of marine, industrial, or farm suppliers. The trouble will be finding one that will handle gallon jugs. Enco, now MSC, used to. I gave up on the hydraulic oils for the ways and got some Vectra II. It does a far better job of staying in place and preventing sweaty fingerprints. I put pipe fittings on the gearbox to make changing oil easier, but it's not like you are going to be doing it all that often. I use a large screw top pill bottle and a chip brush to spread the way oil around. The pump oiler is only needed for the ball oilers.

HSS tool bits are my work horses. You can grind HSS with the grey silicon carbide wheels from the box store, but they are not the best. I use a #60 S/C wheel for roughing, mostly because I haven't worn it out yet. I use an aluminum oxide (white) wheel #100 I think for finish. It has been a long time since that wheel has been off the grinder. I have heard good things about the pink wheels, but haven't used one. You will also need a diamond hone or hard arkansas stone to get the tool really sharp. I do not use HSS on mystery metal or hard to turn stuff. I got a set of 3/8 indexable tools from CDCO. They sell a set that comes with a boring bar. I use that bar a lot.
 
Sounds like you have the equipment to set up,a dedicated grinder. Aluminium oxide wheels are supposed to work well for grinding HSS. Not sure about grit- maybe 60-80 grit.

Also just read up on CBN wheels. These are the Caddilac of wheels - right up their with diamond wheels apparently. They are a synthetic wheel with fine Cubic Boron Nitride 120 grit crystals. Apparently these last forever and produce no heat when grinding HSS. So ideal for cutters and drill bits. They are a bit spendy- $100 to $250 and up on eBay. But seem to have excellent reviews.

Glenn
 
Mark Stonich said:
Do you get your oils from Grizzly?
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Mobile Vacta II for ways, I use Mobile DTE Light (which is ISO 32) for headstock, in your case you would use DTE Heavy-Medium (ISO 68).

Used to buy it from enco when they had the 20% off + free shipping.

Now that Enco = MSC, so it probably won't be quite as good a deal (link below show $18/gallon for me for Vacta II, $23/gallon for DTE):

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/60002151?fromRR=Y

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00265462
 
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RJSakowski said:
I bought the same QCTP when I bought my 602. It works well. You will most likely want to add additional tool holders and I would recommend buy them from Shars e-bay site. They are less expensive and better quality. If you want to use 1/2" tooling, you will find that the Grizzly tool holders won't go at or below the spindle center axis. The Shars 250-101-XL holderts are meant for 5/8" tools, max. and will dip slightly below the centerline.

Rather than the G5687 live center I would spring for the extra and go with the G988 long nose center. I have the G9362 which is similar to the one you are looking at and the large bearing housing sometimes gets in the way.

Add a drill chuck to the package if you don't already have one. I have a G8234 keyless chuck which has worked well. You would need to select a different arbor for it.

Aside from those items, you should probably select a set of tool bits. I would recommend HSS to start as they can be ground much easier than carbide. You may want to select both though. Center drills in various sizes, a set of drills; fractional by 1/64" to 1/2" or a full set of fractional, number and letter drills. I have had a bad experience with the Grizzly H8183 set; mismarked, crooked, and brittle drills though. For boring, I have used boring tool sets intended for boring heads. One of the tool holders will accommodate 1/2" shank boring tools.

As mentioned above, dial or test indicators, calipers, and micrometers are almost required for working on the lathe.
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I am curious as to the tool size I did buy 2 different sets of the 3/8 bits from grizzly but even when I shim them to half inch they are still below the centerline on my g0602 on both ends , I am just setting up mine and it was made in 2007. Lathe cover says 3/8s tool size max but all my papers that came with it say 1/2 max . I am using the tool holder that came with it. Did I just get lucky ? it looks like i may still need to shim up about 1/16 of a inch more to be on center . Aaron
 
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AIrlineRefueler said:
I am curious as to the tool size I did buy 2 different sets of the 3/8 bits from grizzly but even when I shim them to half inch they are still below the centerline on my g0602 on both ends , I am just setting up mine and it was made in 2007. Lathe cover says 3/8s tool size max but all my papers that came with it say 1/2 max . I am using the tool holder that came with it. Did I just get lucky ? it looks like i may still need to shim up about 1/16 of a inch more to be on center . Aaron
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If you are using the 602 OEM 4-way tool holder, the maximum tool size will be that tool for which the cutting edge is at or below the spindle center line. The design of the 4-way will determine this. It is possible that an earlier version of the 4-way wouldn't permit mounting a 1/.2" tool below the center line. The next smaller size tool is 3/8". Grizzly has been known to make design changes in their products and not update their documents.
You will need to shim the 1/2" tool to get correct cutting height. That is the reason that I purchased a QCTP. I didn't like having to shim.
 
Ok that makes sense I am just a beginner using the lathe but it looks like on mine I will be able to use the 1/2 inch bits too, another tool post will have to wait for a while. The main reason I bought mine was to face and adjust shoulders on some old mauser rifle barrels and practice threading for them for receivers. And do some barrel work ,the bore on the spindle is just big enough for most of these old mauser barrels. My first project is going to be making a outside spider and to find a few 55 degree whitworth threading bits. Thanks for that advice. Aaron
 
use these, front holder, is used the most. ebay

Back holder, 1/2 shank from Grizzly

P1010748.JPG shars.png


Charl
 
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