11" 1957-2 Refurb

Dmp2275,
I plan on purchasing a 20 ton air bottle jack for my press but many other projects to finish first. It is a pain to jack the handle especially on long throws so spacers ease the jacking for now.

I agree with your recommendation on addressing the QCGB as soon as possible. It's next.

Thanks very much for taking the time to post the info and all the pictures on what you did with your collet closer. It looks like a simple and clean solution.
 
No problem! I don't really know what the heck im doing yet but if i can provide help to any others, im all for it Flustered
 
Not trying to hijack your thread but I just finished my QCGB today. The only issues I had was the LA-1222 shaft (The shaft with all the gears on it) was bent and the LA-1215-1 shaft (The shaft the levers slide on) was worn. I ended up straightening the LA-1222 shaft on my hydraulic press and I made a new LA-1215-1 shaft. I replaced all of the oilite bushings which I ordered from McMaster Carr. All the shafts took some fitting in the oilite bushings because they were too tight. In addition, I stripped the name plate and refinished with black enamel. The QCGB looks much better and runs much smoother. There were no major issues like you had with yours but I knew there was an issue because you could hear a surge with it running. It turned out to be the bent shaft. Here's a picture of the finished QCGB:
IMG_1283_zpsuq0gwgyu.jpg
 
No worries about hijacking, I enjoy seeing what others are able to do! Feel free to post as many photos as you'd like. That gearbox turned out pretty nice. Glad you got it all sorted. What year is your machine? Based on my serial, I think mine was made in 1961. Im curious as you appear to have a brass speed chart while mine is aluminum.
 
Thanks, Dmp2275.

My 1957 Lathe was built in 1953 according to the serial number chart on the Logan Website for serial number 60588.

The name plate is made of brass and I believe it is the original. Logan sells a name plate (item # LP-1785B) that is brass and would work OK but it shows 72 and 36 tooth stud gears and mine uses 48 and 24 tooth stud gears. The feeds are the same so I thought if I ended up trashing my name plate I could order and use the replacement without changing any gears. Fortunately, mine turned out OK and I like using the original parts and it matches my stud gears. I could have used red, blue, and black but decided to just use black which works fine for me. It appeared that someone long ago refurbished this nameplate with red and black as seen in a prior picture I posted on this thread. Therefore, there wasn't much left of the raised portion of the plate to work with while wet sanding to bring out the brass of the raised portion after painting.

Best regards.
 
@Dmp2275 - nice job!

@MBfrontier - would you mind sharing the details about the paint you used on your lathe? That looks very close to what little original paint is left on my lathe, which I want to restore someday.

T. J.
 
T.J.,

I used Benjamin Moore Alkyd Enamel color ID 2119-30 Baby Seal Black. I originally started using this paint on my Logan 200 restoration. I buy it a quart at a time from a local Benjamin Moore Dealer. It is documented on the Logan Lathe Website in the FAQ section here:
http://lathe.com/faq/index.html#_Toc95180279

I use a brush to apply the paint. It needs a small amount of mineral spirits mixed in to reduce the brush marks in the finish. It doesn't look as good as a spray paint finish but I like not having overspray in the shop during the winter months when I can't paint outside.

The paint I used on the nameplate is Rustoleum High Gloss Black.
 
Thanks!
I had seen that reference on the Logan website. I'm glad to see you got good results. The sample color on the Benjamin-Moore website looks way darker.

T. J.
 
Great thread! You have inspired me to do the same to my Logan. Complete teardown yesterday. Started cleaning parts and ran out of time. Back to it today.

Couple questions. How did you get the leadscrew apart from the case? I can't figure out how to hold the screw while getting enough torque on the nut.

Did you happen to save a parts list of the bearings and bushings you replaced?

Nice job, looks great!
 
RonRock,
I wrapped cardboard around the collar on the outside and held with a pair of channel locks while unscrewing the nut on the inside with a box wrench.

QCGB:
Below is a list of the items I ordered from McMaster Carr in addition to where they go, qty, and whether they needed to be cut to length. I ordered some bearings from McMaster Carr longer than needed because they did not offer the exact length required and didn't want to place several orders with multiple vendors. In addition, some of these (if not all) needed to be fitted because the ID was too tight on the shaft after installation into the housing. I hope this is helpful but recommend you measure the bearings in your housing to check against this list before you make a purchase.

Line Product Ordered Shipped
1 6391K241 Oil-Embedded Sleeve Bearing, for 5/8" Shaft Diameter, 3/4" OD, 1/2" LG. 2 Each

2 6391K119 Oil-Embedded Sleeve Bearing, for 7/16" Shaft Diameter, 9/16" OD, 1" LG. 3 Each

3 6391K172 Oil-Embedded Sleeve Bearing, for 3/8" Shaft Diameter, 1/2" OD, 3/8" LG. 2 Each

4 6391K253 Oil-Embedded Sleeve Bearing, for 5/8" Shaft Diameter, 13/16" OD, 3/4" LG. 2 Each

5 6391K259 Oil-Embedded Sleeve Bearing, for 3/4" Shaft Diameter, 7/8" OD, 1" LG. 1 Each

Line item 1 bearings are for the selector shaft. (1/2 length instead of .578)
Line item 2 bearings are for what I call the gang gear shaft (2) and inboard small dia. of the input shaft (1). (1 inch length cut to 3/4)
Line item 3 bearings are for the two selector gears.
Line item 4 bearings are for the input shaft. (1 inch cut to 3/4)
Line item 5 is for the lead screw.

Spindle:
I purchased these bearings from Applied Industrial Technologies. Be sure to check your bearings to make sure these are the proper replacements.

Qty. 1 SKF 6010 2ZNRJEM
Qty. 1 SKF 6009 2ZJEM

Good luck with your project.
 
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