Drilling Issues

Bob Korves said:
Don't know who you are asking, but I use larger than 1/2" drill bits in chucks when necessary, but only on easier materials and in gentle steps. I will not use my precision keyless chucks for the job. I have a Jacobs 3/4" chuck on a 3MT taper, and that can handle some heavier work. Sometimes you just need to use a Silver and Deming drill to get the job done, and if you are careful and don't push the possibilities it works OK. Watch out for heavy work in chrome moly and stainless steels unless you have a really solid setup and enough power to handle it. A lathe dog around the shank of the drill, set screw tightened onto a ground flat spot on the shank, and tail resting on the compound, helps to keep the setup from spinning in the tail stock or the chuck.

I have picked up a good assortment of MT and S&D drills over the years and can usually get it done without scaring myself or hurting anything :-|
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Maybe that is my problem. I have been using larger S&D bits to drill up to 1" diameter, using a 1/2" Jacobs chuck and then bore if it needs to be bigger. I have a G0602 (clone actually) and have run into issues with the bit spinning or at least wanting to. So I usually increase drill sizes in a few steps and go slowly, to get to the final diameter before boring. I don't have any reemers (those things are very expensive). Is this the wrong approach? Is there a better way?
 
HBilly1022 said:
Maybe that is my problem. I have been using larger S&D bits to drill up to 1" diameter, using a 1/2" Jacobs chuck and then bore if it needs to be bigger. I have a G0602 (clone actually) and have run into issues with the bit spinning or at least wanting to. So I usually increase drill sizes in a few steps and go slowly, to get to the final diameter before boring. I don't have any reemers (those things are very expensive). Is this the wrong approach? Is there a better way?
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For that size lathe you are probably working at or near the maximum safe range already. You are definitely in the area of needing to be extra careful. In my experience, which is really not that much, those jobs can go really smoothly and I feel like a wuss, but then the next time I try to do the same thing it goes to hell, usually blamed on being careless with some detail. We are hobby machinists, no foreman watching our output per hour. The idea is having fun and the personal satisfaction of being confident and competent as we work on our projects. One "Oh, ****" cancels out many attaboys...
 
HBilly1022 said:
I started watching his drill bit sharpening video last night but quit because I couldn't stand the music he was playing. Guess I'll turn down the volume until I get past that part and then watch the whole thing and then watch his drilling vid.
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Not just him. There are several guys putting out machining videos that should just skip the music if they can't find anything better.
 
I've used S&D up to 3/4" on my little HF 8x14, but always at the lowest speed possible, and with a keyed chuck.
 
I picked up a couple of S&D bits that has 3 flats on the shank. Now all of mine have 3 flats on the shanks
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Toolmaster, what is the main reason for pushing the bit sideways to stabilize it instead of resharpening it? My first thought during the video was that putting side pressure on it would easily push the bit off center, even if it stopped wobbling because of the slightest over travel with the pusher
Also, could that wobble be caused by the small bit being bent? I mean, even if you center drill first, if the tip of your drill bit is off center when you push it in it could behave like that no?

Just curious
 
Once it straightens out it makes its own center hole..once it is centered i slowly back out the nudger...i get the best centered holes this way..
 
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