2015 POTD Thread Archive

102_0993 (850 x 565).jpg I don't post much here as my projects usually take months to finish. A friend wanted a set of Template Followers for different sized and shaped router bits. I made this set from 303 SS. The thread is 1.125-24. The Brass one is the pattern I used. The knurled nut fits all and holds the Followers to the Router Base. It cost more to make this set than it would have cost to buy them, but why pay $30.00 for something when you can easily make it for $300.00.:)

"Billy G"
 
Yea, but yours look great, and the satisfaction of doing the work, is worth more to you than the cost.
 
Bill Gruby said:
I don't post much here as my projects usually take months to finish.
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You're just not workin' hard enough Bill. :grin:

Very nice, it's always better if you can give a tool that personal touch. Has a lot more meaning.
 
chevydyl said:
so here are some pictures of my new to me Mitsubishi ASX445 3" face mill. my initial use of it is the hot rolled steel plate pictured as well, which is the mini pallet project. the pictures of the steel that aren't as reflective as the one with my hand are cut without a wiper insert. Also these cuts were done dry. the inserts themselves are cermet inserts, and I was running this cutter at 1000rpm, it don't matter how fast you crank the handle, you cant even tell your cutting......im wowed. obviously if you cut real deep youll know but..... .020-.070 its like butter
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the blurry area next to my wrist is comparing the wiper insert to non wiper, the middle and fingertip area have been both cut with the wiper, I used the upcut method for all my feeding, .0006 runout on the shars arbor
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Could you please explain what a "wiper insert" is? Or what makes it different from a regular inert. Also, what is the "upcut method"?

Love the finish you are getting on your new facemill. I recently scored a Glacern 3" off ebay, I love how it cuts and I got a screaming deal.
 
A wiper inserts cutting edge is a little lower than the rest so after the normal inserts take their cut, the wiper "wipes" about .008 or so, it might be less, for a finish cut, they don't look like the normal inserts either, they have a different shape or geometry
The upcut method is much like climb cutting, start at the column side to the left and feed the table left, supposed to make a nicer finish and make the inserts last longer, per Mitsubishi
 
  • I just finished cleaning up tools after this latest project. After drilling and tapping almost 100 holes on my mini pallet, my left arm was sore for a couple days just from reaching up to the side of the head to control the motor. So I re-wired the whole mill and created a new control panel. Went from this:
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Took a few days to fab and sort out this mess:


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And ended up with this. Still waiting for 2 air solenoids to finish the control of the air mister and knee pneumatic cylinder assist.

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nice job john.
awhile ago I bought bunch of tooling off a guy, included were about 20-40 threading inserts but no holder. so I made a couple, the internal was a botch job as I tried to free hand the pocket, I mean it works but I call a do-over lol. the external I setup on the table and clamped it with shims under it to get the approximate angle for the insert to lay down. both are mild steel, both Hot.
more or less the internal was just a test to see if I could cut the pocket at all. I just laid the insert on the roughed holder and sprayed Spray-On layout fluid over it, it wasn't super pretty but there was enough to get it right. I used the external holder to make a thread-gage for when I make my next chuck adapter. it has a great fit in my other chucks, better than the spindle itself, I noticed that the spindle threads are tapered about .030 per inch. the AG60 insert will cut 8TPI as advertised but man is it close for comfort.
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Franko said:
I like the coupling nut idea so much, I'm going to modify the rest of this whole set of c-clamps.
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I'm with you on the coupling nut idea. Thanks for posting.
I've had situations where there were so many 2" clamps, in a small area, that using the T handles was a real hassle. The hex drive conversion would eliminate that issue completely.
 
chevydyl said:
I noticed that the spindle threads are tapered about .030 per inch
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Nice score on the inserts Chevydyl. They usually run upwards of $20 Cdn./piece and I doubt you paid anywhere near that. Those holders look excellent. I'll need to add an internal threading holder to my to do list. It looks like your spindle may have had quite a few chuck changes to wear the starting threads down .030", but most likely someone with a file tapered it to make chuck installation easier. The spindle should be hardened so I doubt it was wear induced. As long as you have consistent centering when changing chucks I wouldn't worry about it.
 
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