Mbfrontier's Logan 200 Rehab

Good News, Mike!

The toggle switch is probably too convenient. It is in a great spot to turn it off in a pinch without having to reach over the lathe or under something where you might miss, but also to bump it by accident, and it can be in the way for carriage stops and such. I will probably wire it to work because that's how it came, and that's how I am, but I will take moving it under advisement right from the start. I have in my mind that I don't think I care for the later guard frame mounting of the drum switch. We shall see.

Now you will be loving the back gear shaft slot mod! I got mine adjusted really well and the back gears make little more noise than without them engaged. Chips are coming very soon!!

Hey, Redlineman.

Glad to hear you are making good progress. I'll be watching to see when you start making chips.

I will either get the toggle switch working with my drum switch or I'll move the drum switch somewhere? Hopefully, someone can get me pointed in the right direction with the wiring if possible.

Well...

I actually haven't been making any progress at all. Too many projects and now its busy season again. Electrics and I don't get along so well, so I'm no help there for sure. I can probably manage to get the toggle switch wired, but that's about it.

Mike,

You need to run the line to the toggle switch first, then the the drum switch. In other words, the switch needs to be in the black line wire going to drum switch terminal 1 (top left as drawn). With it wired as shown, when you turn the toggle switch off, you still have line voltage on the start winding, so if the motor is already running with minimum load on it, it would slow down until the centrifugal switch closed and then try to speed back up but probably never get going fast enough to open the switch again. And in a few tens of seconds, you would start smelling smoke.

Thank you, Robert (wa5cab).

I will try that tomorrow and see how it works.

wa5cab said:

Mike,

You need to run the line to the toggle switch first, then the the drum switch. In other words, the switch needs to be in the black line wire going to drum switch terminal 1 (top left as drawn). With it wired as shown, when you turn the toggle switch off, you still have line voltage on the start winding, so if the motor is already running with minimum load on it, it would slow down until the centrifugal switch closed and then try to speed back up but probably never get going fast enough to open the switch again. And in a few tens of seconds, you would start smelling smoke.

Click to expand...

Hey, Robert D. (wa5cab)
Thanks for reviewing my info in post #59 and responding with the right answer. I changed the wiring so the toggle switch was wired to the power line in black lead going to terminal #1 on the drum switch and everything works as it should. I really appreciate your help. Your response really made sense to me when I thought about it but I couldn't figure it out on my own with my limited electrical ability. Best regards.

You're welcome.

Here is the updated schematic for the Grizzly G2530 Motor wiring that works with a drum switch and a toggle switch.

Yesterday, while waiting for the paint to dry on my guard frame and drive box cover I decided to clean up my change gears. I cleaned them in the parts washer and then used a wire brush by hand and sprayed them with chain lube to keep them from developing rust.


This morning I removed the reverse gear assembly and the back gear shifter rack to readjust the back gear engagement to eliminate the noise I heard when engaged. I thought I may have the engagement adjusted too tight and that turned out to be the case. I set the adjustment so there was a tiny bit of lash in the gears and that turned out to be good and quiet when running.

This afternoon I assembled the drive box cover and the guard frame and door. I ordered two rubber bumpers for the drive box cover but they haven't arrived yet so I'll install them when they get here. They just push into the two holes that are in the bottom front of the drive box cover. I was going to come up with a different way to latch the door but ended up using the original spring steel latch to get it back together today. I may end up changing the latch in the future.





Needless to say, I am very happy this project is progressing to completion. It was nice to have the drive box cover back in place to be able to run the lathe without having to use a screwdriver to try and tighten the belt while test running after making adjustments.

I am planning on doing something with the peg leg so it is adjustable and that will eliminate the block of wood I temporarily installed to raise the unit so it was level. The pipe is even with the top of the casting and would barely be locked in place by the bottom set screw without another solution. I liked Redlineman's comment about welding a nut on the bottom of the leg and using a screw to be able to adjust it.

Also, I will be making a test bar to align the tail stock with the spindle.

Other than that I think I will be up and running as long as Murphy stays away.

That's it for now.

Dang, sure is pretty, nice work