NFPA79 guidance has to do with connections to devices, I did not see any specifics to the crimp terminal itself, and is somewhat specific to the type of connection/terminals. The same applies to the NFPA70 National Electrical Code, which in most terminations at terminals are specific to use of bare wire.
13.1.1.5 Soldered connections shall only be permitted where terminals are provided that are identified for soldering.
13.1.1.8 Means of retaining conductor strands shall be provided when terminating conductors at devices or terminals that are not equipped with this facility. Solder shall not be used for that purpose.
13.5.9.4 Soldered or insulation-piercing–type connectors (lugs) shall not be used. (for motor connections)
They are somewhat different issues. A soldered sire, which is then crimped or just soldered and attached to a terminal, does not allow the wires to move and fill the area, i.e. a single point of contact. This is somewhat like a cold joint, and the solder will also cold flow making the connection come loose with time. There is also the added issue, that people tend to over tighten connection terminals, often breaking or damaging the wire. One reason why most terminals have specific torque specifications, and are specific to acceptable terminations to be used.
Good crimping/connections is all about minimizing the void volume, thus most professional crimping devices provide circumferential crimping. Even with this, in some circumstances it is preferable to solder the "compressed" joint to eliminate any void are and prevent future corrosion.
Having worked in the boat building environment many decades ago, this was usual and common practice for smaller wires. Example below.
http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg4/cg432/docs/techsheets/2010-02.pdf
"Lugs are available in tinned copper which avoids the corrosion issue at the crimp and under the screw terminal and battery lug. Lugs can be purchased insulated or non-insulated. Insulated lugs are generally used if they are crimped in the field. Non-insulated lugs are used if heat shrink tubing is applied over the termination after the lug is crimped and/or soldered. When soldering, slide a piece of heat shrink up the insulated conductor, apply a liquid or paste rosin flux to the wire, insert into the lug, apply heat to the barrel of the lug and insert solder into the end of the barrel until it is drawn into the strands. Do not use too much solder as it will wick up the wire past the lug and cause the wire to lose flexibility. Slide the heat shrink over the barrel after it cools and use a heat gun to shrink the tubing in place, sealing the insulation and lug to prevent moisture from wicking up the conductor."
If you want additional bedtime reading, this is how NASA does it.
http://www.hq.nasa.gov/office/codeq/doctree/87394.pdf
Ferule with solder is one form of connections for termination.
My main concern is that standard crimping tools sold do a very poor job of making a safe connection, just try it and then try to pull on the wire and see if it moves or pulls out. I always do this after crimping, and you would be surprised how often the wire pulls out. Proper soldering at the tip fills the voids, and minimizes the risk of pullout/corrosion. That along with heat shrink tubing, especially the fusible kind make for a very stable connection.
To address the topic of this post, ferrules, however you want to use them are great.