- Joined
- Nov 21, 2014
- Messages
- 39
I have my new Grizzly G0755 up and running, and I enjoy it very much. I didn't see much point in listing all the little things that I like about it, so I thought I'd be more helpful and list the bad things I've found so far, and I do hope this helps, this post is not intended to be a "Beat up Grizzly" post.
I found the stand to be a little short, I left it on the pallet which adds about 5.5", and I think another 4 to 6 inches would be better, but I'm afraid to "Stack" up cribbing so will live with it as it is until I can find some 6 - 8" channel to fab up a solid replacement for my wood pallet. Unlike a knee mill, the table does not travel up and down, so you avoid the risk of putting it a little too high and then later finding that you have to stand on your tip toes to see your work when it is way up.....that is the voice of experience, I did just that thing with a previous machine.
The base is a waste of space, I believe that I'm going to change one or both of the covers into doors for storage, and/or flush pump and liquid storage tank.
During my break-in run I notice oil weeping up around the four motor mount bolts. I believe this is due to the lack of a vent for the gear box allowing it to pressurize when it warms up. I'm in search of a vent to replace the filler plug with.
On the power feed for the table is a 'Rapid Transit' button. The manufacturer has buggered up a pin/plunger, that contacts the micro switch at an angle. They created the angle buy bending the switch mount bracket beyond 90'. On my machine, when I pressed the button the first time, the pin/plunger pushed the switch button then went beyond it and stuck there which caused the switch to remain 'made up' even after I released the button. I fixed it by 'un-bending' the bracket a little. not a good fix to a poor design. I believe that I'll go to Radioshack and purchase a face mount switch to replace the cheesy lash-up. I mention this so new owners will be aware and not startled if the table keeps on going.
The machine has a power up for the head, and also comes with a manual crank handle, this of course allows for fine movements that can't accomplished with the motor, provides for manual operation in case of motor failure and aids in movement beyond the stop switches. If and when one used the manual crank handle, please remove it just as you would a chuck key on a lathe. Also, look for the bundle of wires that hang down and ride on the three lug "Cable Saw" left behind when you remove the handle. I took a tapered drinking tumbler and pressed over the boss to protect the wires (and clothing or whatever) from being snagged or sawn. I had to keep cutting the tumble down until the diameter made a nice friction fit on the boss.
On the same subject, I recommend that after you use the switch to electrically put the head in transit up or down, that the switch be returned to the off position. If it is left engaged and one manually cranks the head out of micro switch range, the switch will change states and the motor will restart while you still have the crank handle in hand. (IMO, the machine should have spring loaded buttons that de-energize when released or a spring return to neutral knob, anything that prevents the operator from doing another function while the head is in transit).
Had a difficult time with making the column perpendicular to the table, turns out they had metal filings left in between the base of the column and the base itself.
During the break in run of about an hour, my gear box felt barely warm to the touch, not "hot" at all. It was cooler than the motor.
In spite of what the manual says, there is no light under the head, but it wasn't advertised as such either.
I like this machine and would recommend it to anyone for home/hobby use, not sure how it would hold up to industrial use.
Sry no pics, I guess I've used up my allotted space on the four pic that I've already posted.
Scotty
I found the stand to be a little short, I left it on the pallet which adds about 5.5", and I think another 4 to 6 inches would be better, but I'm afraid to "Stack" up cribbing so will live with it as it is until I can find some 6 - 8" channel to fab up a solid replacement for my wood pallet. Unlike a knee mill, the table does not travel up and down, so you avoid the risk of putting it a little too high and then later finding that you have to stand on your tip toes to see your work when it is way up.....that is the voice of experience, I did just that thing with a previous machine.
The base is a waste of space, I believe that I'm going to change one or both of the covers into doors for storage, and/or flush pump and liquid storage tank.
During my break-in run I notice oil weeping up around the four motor mount bolts. I believe this is due to the lack of a vent for the gear box allowing it to pressurize when it warms up. I'm in search of a vent to replace the filler plug with.
On the power feed for the table is a 'Rapid Transit' button. The manufacturer has buggered up a pin/plunger, that contacts the micro switch at an angle. They created the angle buy bending the switch mount bracket beyond 90'. On my machine, when I pressed the button the first time, the pin/plunger pushed the switch button then went beyond it and stuck there which caused the switch to remain 'made up' even after I released the button. I fixed it by 'un-bending' the bracket a little. not a good fix to a poor design. I believe that I'll go to Radioshack and purchase a face mount switch to replace the cheesy lash-up. I mention this so new owners will be aware and not startled if the table keeps on going.
The machine has a power up for the head, and also comes with a manual crank handle, this of course allows for fine movements that can't accomplished with the motor, provides for manual operation in case of motor failure and aids in movement beyond the stop switches. If and when one used the manual crank handle, please remove it just as you would a chuck key on a lathe. Also, look for the bundle of wires that hang down and ride on the three lug "Cable Saw" left behind when you remove the handle. I took a tapered drinking tumbler and pressed over the boss to protect the wires (and clothing or whatever) from being snagged or sawn. I had to keep cutting the tumble down until the diameter made a nice friction fit on the boss.
On the same subject, I recommend that after you use the switch to electrically put the head in transit up or down, that the switch be returned to the off position. If it is left engaged and one manually cranks the head out of micro switch range, the switch will change states and the motor will restart while you still have the crank handle in hand. (IMO, the machine should have spring loaded buttons that de-energize when released or a spring return to neutral knob, anything that prevents the operator from doing another function while the head is in transit).
Had a difficult time with making the column perpendicular to the table, turns out they had metal filings left in between the base of the column and the base itself.
During the break in run of about an hour, my gear box felt barely warm to the touch, not "hot" at all. It was cooler than the motor.
In spite of what the manual says, there is no light under the head, but it wasn't advertised as such either.
I like this machine and would recommend it to anyone for home/hobby use, not sure how it would hold up to industrial use.
Sry no pics, I guess I've used up my allotted space on the four pic that I've already posted.
Scotty
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