Flood Coolant Set Up Questions

It didn't go well today. Fired up the system and no lights for K1 or K2 or pin 1 and pin 14. Checked my configuration, thinking I didn't save my previous settings, and all is good, i.e. Output 1 and 2 enabled and set to Port 1, Pin 1/14. Ran out of time today. Will work on it some more in the morning.
 
I think you hit on something. I had a similar problem when I first started my conversion. Installed a 12 or 15vdc power supply and that cured it. Thanks for the reminder.

I bench tested the relay using a 18vdc (my SSR is rated 3 to 32vdc) and I have continuity across the AC terminals. Evidently the relay doesn't like low control voltage.

The problem now is the BoB relays aren't energizing. They were working a few days ago but when I fired it up yesterday afternoon I had no relays. Everything else on the board works, e.g. I have axis motion and the spindle responds to M3 and M4 commands. When I toggle the Flood button it blinks "blue", which is normal, but the K1 relay, and pin 1, do not energize. Using M8 still nothing.
 
Check jumpers JP1 and JP2 on the BOB. These will have an affect on the config dip switches 7 & 8. If you're using a 107 spindle card, you may have the BOB set to Multimode, which means relay K1 is controlled by the 107 card and not Port 1, Pin 1.

Similar situation with K2 relay. JP2 and Config 8 control what, if anything, triggers K2. See page 11 of the manual.

-S
 
Check jumpers JP1 and JP2 on the BOB. These will have an affect on the config dip switches 7 & 8. If you're using a 107 spindle card, you may have the BOB set to Multimode, which means relay K1 is controlled by the 107 card and not Port 1, Pin 1.

Similar situation with K2 relay. JP2 and Config 8 control what, if anything, triggers K2. See page 11 of the manual.

-S

I've got the jumpers set for pin 1 on JP1 and pin 14 on JP2. If I understand the manual correctly in this mode dip switches 7 and 8 have no effect on K1 or K2. Ouput 1 is enabled and set to Port #1 and pin #1, Output 2 is enabled and set to Port #1 and pin #14 and I've unchecked "Disable Flood/Mist Relays" on the Spindle Setup tab. The relays were energized a couple of days ago but for some unknown reason they're not working now. I'm missing something. Just don't know what it is.
 
You've got it set up correctly as far as I can tell. Next move is to contact PMDX on their forum - they're extraordinarily helpful over there. They should be able to help you determine if it's a setup issue or dead relays.
 
You've got it set up correctly as far as I can tell. Next move is to contact PMDX on their forum - they're extraordinarily helpful over there. They should be able to help you determine if it's a setup issue or dead relays.

I posted on the PMDX forum yesterday morning under the user name LerninCNC. No response yet.

Spent most of the day reading most of the PMDX forum posts and the net looking for info that might help. Tried a few things that I thought might work but still no change. Guess I'll have to be patient until they respond.
 
While you're waiting for a response - the BOB isn't in 'test' mode is it? Manual states that that de-energizes everything. Same thing for an E-stop.

Also, when you trigger pin1 or pin14, can you see the on-board LED's light up on the BOB? And also see in Mach (or whatever controller you're using) diagnostics page if the pins are driving high or low? If the screen LED's are off, then come on when you click whatever button you've assigned the M8 function to, then the controller is probably working and sending a signal to the BOB. Once the screen LED indicates the pin is high, then check the BOB. The Port-1 Pin-1 & Pin-14 LEDs are right next to J6 connector. If you're getting a screen LED, and also a BOB LED, but no relay joy - then dead relays.

Another option is to try to change the K2 trigger and see if that changes anything. Set JP2 to 'multimode' and dip switch 8 to 'closed.' Then assign M8 function to Port-2, Pin-14 and try to trigger the K2 relay. The BOB LED is labeled "B" next to connector J5.

After that, I'm stumped.
 
While you're waiting for a response - the BOB isn't in 'test' mode is it? Manual states that that de-energizes everything. Same thing for an E-stop.

Also, when you trigger pin1 or pin14, can you see the on-board LED's light up on the BOB? And also see in Mach (or whatever controller you're using) diagnostics page if the pins are driving high or low? If the screen LED's are off, then come on when you click whatever button you've assigned the M8 function to, then the controller is probably working and sending a signal to the BOB. Once the screen LED indicates the pin is high, then check the BOB. The Port-1 Pin-1 & Pin-14 LEDs are right next to J6 connector. If you're getting a screen LED, and also a BOB LED, but no relay joy - then dead relays.

Another option is to try to change the K2 trigger and see if that changes anything. Set JP2 to 'multimode' and dip switch 8 to 'closed.' Then assign M8 function to Port-2, Pin-14 and try to trigger the K2 relay. The BOB LED is labeled "B" next to connector J5.

After that, I'm stumped.

I've never pushed the test button and the status light is not on so I don't believe I'm in test mode. No matter what I've tried the BoB LED's do not light up nor is there indication on the Diagnostics screen.

Good idea on setting JP2 to "multimode". Will try that this morning. If it works with JP2 I'll set JP1 to "multimode" and key in the appropriate settings as I'd rather use K1 to start/stop the pump motor.
 
I haven't investigated why I'm getting 3.95vdc. I'm out of town for a couple of days. Could be my power supply but don't know for sure.

As I recall I had a similar problem when I first converted my machine. IIRC I upped the power supply to 12 or 15vdc and that solved the problem. I'll check it out when I get home on Thursday.

Have you re-checked this? If your 5V supply has gotten lower output, more things are going to stop working.

If I'm reading this right, you went from the SSR not triggering the AC relay to almost (?) nothing working.
 
If you've never gotten the BOB LED's working, then there's a config problem in Mach, a dead PP cable or physical pin, or the BOB is truly smoked.

If it were just the relays, the BOB LED's would light up. And since the BOB has an onboard 120/240VAC transformer on it, there's no issue with a power supply to the BOB. If you're using an ESS are you powering it through the BOB?
 
Back
Top