milling on the lathe

casca92

MURPHY:Was an optimist ,when compared to me
H-M Supporter Gold Member
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ok, this question makes sense in my head. Let's see how it looks on the screen
I have a set of ER32 collets on hand and a mill holder for ER32 collets on the way. it maybe a while before I obtain a mill.
I have a 9x20 jet lathe . I want to do some light milling on the lathe.
I think (problem starts ) all I need is an ER 32 MT 3 taper collet chuck Correct ? what would keep this from spinning inside the lathe since it is not threaded on to spindle like a regular lathe chuck ? is this the correct way to do this or just one of many ?

Am I over thinking this to much ?
 
You should buy a collet body that is tapped in the end so that a drawbar can be used through the lathe spindle; If the drawbar type of adaptor is not available and a tang type is all you can get, and if the milling cuts are light, and you seat the adaptor with a soft hammer (smartly) it would likely stay in, but Morse tapers are not very good at staying in the taper when used for milling, the taper is too steep, this is why the older milling machines used the Brown & Sharpe taper which is not so steep. If you have a good three jaw chuck that runs true, you may be able to hold end mills that way.
 
Holding the endmill is one point, holding and moving the work is the other. Do you have a milling attachment for your lathe?
 
Why not use one of these instead of a morse taper chuck?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/231917611422

A collet chuck like this would hold your milling cutters just as well and would have the added capability to run long material thru the spindle bore for standard turning operations. It would require you to machine a back plate for it, but that's not too difficult.
 
Why not use one of these instead of a morse taper chuck?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/231917611422

A collet chuck like this would hold your milling cutters just as well and would have the added capability to run long material thru the spindle bore for standard turning operations. It would require you to machine a back plate for it, but that's not too difficult.

it seemed more expensive and really didn't see a reason for longer at this time.
 
Before I got my first mill I used my lathe to mill. I made my own endmill holder to fit my 3jaw chuck from some cold rolled. I measured the inside length of the jaws and undercut that stock near the end leaving approximately 1/4" as a lip to hold the holder from pulling out or pushing in the chuck. Then after cutting an angle to shape the nose, I bored a 3/8" hole approximately 1" deep for a Weldon endmill to bottom out, then drilled a 3/16" hole on side of holder nose, tapped it for a set screw to tighten against Weldon flat and had made a nice tight and secure endmill holder! It worked well for light work because lathe carriage with milling attachment is not sturdy enough to make large diameter or heavy cuts! Your work envelop will be small, tighten the Gibs on carriage and cross slide. You'll yearn for a mill sooner, believe me!
 
Make one of these, it wasnt very difficult, this is on an asian 9x20
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/adjusting-a-taper-bore.48728/
and if you really want to spend some time rather than money then have a go at this
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/a-vertical-slide-for-a-9x20-lathe.49724/
Make one of these, it wasnt very difficult, this is on an asian 9x20
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/adjusting-a-taper-bore.48728/
and if you really want to spend some time rather than money then have a go at this
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/a-vertical-slide-for-a-9x20-lathe.49724/
will be saving this for later thanx
 
Holding the endmill is one point, holding and moving the work is the other. Do you have a milling attachment for your lathe?
deciding on which way to go. make or buy kinda in a medical stand by at this time
 
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