What indicators are needed for scraping?

I bought someone's 57a with 2 spindles. I'm sure that'll be fine. How much are those king ways? I don't think I can get ken to build me a trolley for my lathe measuring... :(

Kinda wish Bob would chime in. I must have done something ;)


Paul
 
Congrats. For general setup work, you might be better off with pin gauges and round spacer blocks rather than actual gauge blocks. I also find an angle block set more generally useful than a sine bar and gage blocks.

Certified gage blocks are very expensive and unless you need to make very high accuracy interchangeable parts, somewhat overkill for hobbyists like myself.

Pin gages are great for both measuring holes (you can put two of them in a hole for measuring diameters, by the way -- you don't need a pin the exact size of the hole you're measuring). They are equally useful for measuring or setting the separation between two parallel surfaces. I find it useful having pin gages up to 0.5" but it depends on the type of work you do.

Whee. It's fun spending your money. :)
--
Rex
 
For machine rebuilding/reconditioning, you do not need gage blocks at all. Just as Rex mentioned above. A good set of 1-2-3 blocks can be handy at times, once in a while two sets!
I notice the little bitty set of feeler gages in your last picture. They might get you by in the beginning but you're going to need others, too. I've always had the 12" long feeler gage leaves they call them. I have them in thicknesses from 0.0005" all the way up to 0.025". My "go to" sizes I use the most is 0.001", 0.002", 0.003", 0.004", 0.005" in checking fit. I start with 0.001" and work up. This will give me a idea of how much material I need to remove to make things flat again. This also tells me what to hand scrape and what goes to the mill for remachining flat again. My rule of thumb is, if a 0.005" or larger feeler goes, it goes to the mill or planer for remachining. Not to say it could be scraped to flatness again. It turns into a lot of work to get there.

Feeler gages are also used to fit up gibs and hold down plates at final assembly on machine components, too. I won't go into details on that now, as the subject comes up I'll chime in and give my two bits worth on it.
 
For machine rebuilding/reconditioning, you do not need gage blocks at all. Just as Rex mentioned above. A good set of 1-2-3 blocks can be handy at times, once in a while two sets!
I notice the little bitty set of feeler gages in your last picture. They might get you by in the beginning but you're going to need others, too. I've always had the 12" long feeler gage leaves they call them. I have them in thicknesses from 0.0005" all the way up to 0.025". My "go to" sizes I use the most is 0.001", 0.002", 0.003", 0.004", 0.005" in checking fit. I start with 0.001" and work up. This will give me a idea of how much material I need to remove to make things flat again. This also tells me what to hand scrape and what goes to the mill for remachining flat again. My rule of thumb is, if a 0.005" or larger feeler goes, it goes to the mill or planer for remachining. Not to say it could be scraped to flatness again. It turns into a lot of work to get there.

Feeler gages are also used to fit up gibs and hold down plates at final assembly on machine components, too. I won't go into details on that now, as the subject comes up I'll chime in and give my two bits worth on it.

As inexpensive as the gauges are I will get those right away. Do I need bent or straight? Or do you use both?

The little set I bought was under $15.00 so a tiny drop in all of this collecting /prep.

Gage blocks ordered...set of 4. :) weeeeeeeeeeee
I hope you guys don't get tired of me before I get to the actual work! :)



Paul
 
Congrats. For general setup work, you might be better off with pin gauges and round spacer blocks rather than actual gauge blocks. I also find an angle block set more generally useful than a sine bar and gage blocks.

Certified gage blocks are very expensive and unless you need to make very high accuracy interchangeable parts, somewhat overkill for hobbyists like myself.

Pin gages are great for both measuring holes (you can put two of them in a hole for measuring diameters, by the way -- you don't need a pin the exact size of the hole you're measuring). They are equally useful for measuring or setting the separation between two parallel surfaces. I find it useful having pin gages up to 0.5" but it depends on the type of work you do.

Whee. It's fun spending your money. :)
--
Rex

Hey It's fun for me too. I really enjoy this part. :D
How do I get a snug for this SPI TDI you had me buy? >:)


Paul
 
................................ Do I need bent or straight? Or do you use both?

.....................................Paul
Bent?
Get a 12" long .001" feeler strip and you'll find out how flexible it is. It just flops around! No, you do not need the bent one's people out there offer.
Remember, most all of the feeler gage sets out there do not come with a .001" feeler. Usually .0015" is the smallest. You need a .001" feeler!

Here's what I'm referring to.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STARRETT-66...915108?hash=item58e5772e24:g:ET0AAOSwuxFYt02h

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Piece-0-...167398?hash=item54458db3e6:g:PvAAAOSwuLZY4hP0

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPI-91-345-...203028?hash=item2cc2967bd4:g:4iQAAOSw6YtZOZEh


Ken
 
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