Don't run the boring bar into the chuck jaws on the end of the hole

4gsr said:
Hey, I've thought about a trip line setup on the lathe.

Let it trip when your body gets about halfway around the chuck.:eek:

But seriously, it's a thought in the back of my mind to do so some day. Just trying to figure out a position to put it in.

One thing I did on a lathe many years ago. I installed a Warner clutch-brake module on the input shaft of the lathe. I put the push button control on the right side of the apron so you could slap the stop button quickly. Worked out nice. Pretty expensive to do today in the home shop environment.
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I don't suppose you've got any pics or notes on the install..
 
bobshobby said:
I don't suppose you've got any pics or notes on the install..
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No. I never thought to take pictures of the conversion back then. I did this back around 1978 and the lathe was sold in 1996.

If your familiar with the old Warner clutch brake setup that was shaft mounted, that is basically what I used. I don't even remember what size clutch-brake that I used. I remember doing a layout drawing on paper to get the mounting dimensions correct along with making a stub shaft to extend the input shaft length coming out of the headstock. Sorry I was not able to come up with anymore than that.

Ken
 
benmychree said:
In an extreme case, I remember the story about a guy at Mare Island Navy Yard who had a job boring a long hole, when suddenly the chuck fell off; he had continued his cuts until he bored all of the spindle away; I think the story went that when this happened, he put his tools away, picked up the tool box and left the premises (permanently).
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I felt vulnerable only having a red mushroom panic button for emergencies that I might not be able to reach quickly enough so I installed a foot operated trip wire early in my adventure into turning. The system is cobbled to act on a power switch and triggers a homemade braking mechanism. It works but it does not give me any more comfort. It made me realize that there is no substitute for vigilance and awareness. The wisdom in the above quote is that if you are not on your game in machining you should be somewhere else.

The few 'surprises' I have had operating the lathe prove that things happen so fast, chances are slim the panic stops will prevent serious injury or damage to the lathe, even if you manage to operate them. So they are there but I do not depend on them at all. I have never found out (yet) for myself how useful brakes might be in panic situations so if you have any personal experience to share I am all ears.
 
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4gsr said:
No. I never thought to take pictures of the conversion back then. I did this back around 1978 and the lathe was sold in 1996.

If your familiar with the old Warner clutch brake setup that was shaft mounted, that is basically what I used. I don't even remember what size clutch-brake that I used. I remember doing a layout drawing on paper to get the mounting dimensions correct along with making a stub shaft to extend the input shaft length coming out of the headstock. Sorry I was not able to come up with anymore than that.

Ken
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Thanks Ken, no I'm not familiar with them. Although it sounds something like what I had in mind. At this stage a lot of guys are saying I should forget it and convert to 3Ph with VFD, and I guess I could I already have 3Ph on the property I would only need to bring it around to the other side of the garage a run of about 20m. Buy and fit a suitable 3Ph motor, and VFD, sounds all very simple but I've got no idea where to start.

I'm a bit confused about this VFD stuff, because I've always believed that if you run a motor on a higher phase yes it will run faster but will probably over heat, And if you run it on a lower frequency it will run slower but also lose torque and overheat, so i'm still in the dark.
 
bobshobby said:
Thanks Ken, no I'm not familiar with them. Although it sounds something like what I had in mind. At this stage a lot of guys are saying I should forget it and convert to 3Ph with VFD, and I guess I could I already have 3Ph on the property I would only need to bring it around to the other side of the garage a run of about 20m. Buy and fit a suitable 3Ph motor, and VFD, sounds all very simple but I've got no idea where to start.

I'm a bit confused about this VFD stuff, because I've always believed that if you run a motor on a higher phase yes it will run faster but will probably over heat, And if you run it on a lower frequency it will run slower but also lose torque and overheat, so i'm still in the dark.
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Overheating has more to do with load vs. cooling capacity than speed. A motor can be turning over very slowly, with the fan moving very little air, without problems if the load is small enough for the motor do dissipate the heat through radiation and natural convection, or short run duration. At high speeds, the typical cooling fan also puts out more air, to a point, and the heat load is also highly dependent on output load. A motor idling at very high speed, without a load, is pretty easy to keep cool. I do not experiment with over speeds of more than 10% on my old surface grinder, with light loads, and only apply very light loads at low speeds, for short duration. It does not pay to push a motor too hard, or to let it overheat. Inverter rated motors and others designed for that kind of work can take wide ranges of speeds and loads without problems.
 
4gsr said:
No. I never thought to take pictures of the conversion back then. I did this back around 1978 and the lathe was sold in 1996.

If your familiar with the old Warner clutch brake setup that was shaft mounted, that is basically what I used. I don't even remember what size clutch-brake that I used. I remember doing a layout drawing on paper to get the mounting dimensions correct along with making a stub shaft to extend the input shaft length coming out of the headstock. Sorry I was not able to come up with anymore than that.

Ken
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I had the Warner electric brake setup on one of my 19" swing Regal Leblonds, and it worked quite well, both in forward and reverse rotations when the lever is moved to the center position, but keep in mind that these would never do on a lathe with threaded spindle; the sights and sounds of a chuck unthreading and falling down between the ways is never a good thing. It has nearly happened on my present 19" with threaded spindle, I use reverse via a drum switch sometimes to slow the spindle down to a stop, and have had it thread off partially, but have caught it with a shot of forward rotation and avoided having the chuck fall off.
 
during my apprenticeship my boss gave me a 3/8" 6" long solid carbide indexable tip boring bar. at home I bottomed it out I now have a 3/8" dia 3.5" long boring bar and a small length of solid carbide. went to a toolstore to replace it and found out a new one cost 300 dollars. sad day don't bottom out the boring bar. bill
 
bfd said:
during my apprenticeship my boss gave me a 3/8" 6" long solid carbide indexable tip boring bar. at home I bottomed it out I now have a 3/8" dia 3.5" long boring bar and a small length of solid carbide. went to a toolstore to replace it and found out a new one cost 300 dollars. sad day don't bottom out the boring bar. bill
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That's one way to learn.
 
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