New Clausing 6913 - Gear box engagement lever fixed!!!!

chips&more said:
I understand that it can be challenging sometimes when somebody before you has “touched it”. It’s much easier to fix it when it’s factory original. It’s a good thing you have the parts breakdown docs. And you also have The Hobby Machinist for help. When you have a bit of time, start at it. And take pictures as you go. Be careful of that clock spring. It has a lot of stored energy as it sits. Don’t go and try to take it out. Just look at it. Check its ends and the rest of the spring. Be looking for a break(s) in the coil and or torn ends. Then check the rest of the parts in that assembly for problems or maybe missing stuff. Reference your parts doc as you go and don’t forget the pics and be safe….Good Luck, Dave.
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You got that right! The more I read the more ideas I get on it and how to repair it. I feel I know what to do, just haven't cracked the combination yet. I haven't had much time to mess with it recently. While another machinist was here looking at the lathe problem(or should I say one machinist was here and I was watching!) he mentioned a Bridgeport clone they were trying to sell, so I went and bought it too. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/new-msc-mill-to-me.58705/ What a weird month! Just got it unloaded in the shop this morning. Now I have a lot to figure out. Glad it doesn't have power to it yet or I'd be messing with 2 machines instead of one!!!!!!
 
Dhector said:
You got that right! The more I read the more ideas I get on it and how to repair it. I feel I know what to do, just haven't cracked the combination yet. I haven't had much time to mess with it recently. While another machinist was here looking at the lathe problem(or should I say one machinist was here and I was watching!) he mentioned a Bridgeport clone they were trying to sell, so I went and bought it too. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/new-msc-mill-to-me.58705/ What a weird month! Just got it unloaded in the shop this morning. Now I have a lot to figure out. Glad it doesn't have power to it yet or I'd be messing with 2 machines instead of one!!!!!!
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I’m a toolaholic and can normally understand or relate. But what you have just done even makes my eyes roll!!!!
 
I got the gearbox engagement lever fixed. I would like to thank all that gave input and helped out with this. The feed screw functions correctly now!!!!!!1.jpg The 2 pins in this picture I made from a Harley Davidson jackshaft gear bolt:) The cradle lock spring hook(the round part next to the lever and pins with has 2 holes in it) They were 1/8 in diameter but the pins were damaged and so were the holes so I drilled them to 9/64 I also drilled the cover holes as well.
2.jpg
3.jpg
4.jpg Over riding clutch
5.jpg This spring pin was missing and its what keeps the "gear cradle" from falling below the gear on the end of the engagement assembly(internal) and not allowing it to move the cradle) See pic 11 and 12(2) . Edit- It also has to be cut off a little to allow the cover to go on.
6.jpg The spring I was having issues with.
7.jpg Pic 6 is the start of winding the spring, move this 180 degrees at least(it will work at 180, I did mine 360 degres and it seems to be ok there to)
8.jpg This is after rotating 180 degrees, go another 180 if you like.
9.jpg While holding the TENSIONED spring in this location to install the cover.
10.jpg Install the cover. Install the jam nut(I used a lock nut, not a nylok and I put it in my little 3950 and made it shorter(so the lock part of the nut gets to the threads on the shaft. Do not tighten it completely, it needs to be snug but allow everything to rotate freely.
11.jpg Gear engagement inside the box. This pic shows how the cradle can fall down too far and the engagement assembly cant pick it back up. This was caused by the spring pin being gone. I am going to try and get a close up of the gear mesh and start another post.
 
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I'm not guaranteeing this is absolutely 100 percent correct. I've called all over the country trying to find any info I can on this with no luck. Kudos to this forum cause I got more off of here and talking to a guy in Denver Colorado that works on lathes than anywhere else!!!!!
 
chips&more said:
It was in jest, you got two machines in one month!
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I am shocked as well. First the lathe for cheap with some cool attachments, then the mill. Funny thing about it is it all happened like it was meant to be. The guy that passed, that owned the lathe, was actually the operator of that very mill at his old job. I've been looking for a mill but nothing out there really that we had come across till this. Obviously I needed large equipment to unload it and when I called the guy that I borrowed his front end loader from to unload the lathe, was 100 yards away using the loader and dropped it off. I used it and he needed it again across the road and picked it up. It seems like there was little effort on my part for this entire thing. Everything just went perfect in every aspect. I'm not used to that. Again I appreciate everyone's help on this machine. More cleaning and then its going to get used!!! Great forum and members!!!!
 
wa5cab said:
As far as collets go, first thing that you need to do (and should do even if you never decide to buy any collets) is to determine what size collets your Collet Attachment fits. One way to start doing this is to determine what the thread in the ID of the draw tube is (major diameter and threads per inch). Then in a table of collet dimensions, find the collet or collets that use that thread. Then confirm by measuring the ID and nose angle of the collet adapter that fits in your spindle nose.
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Collet attachment Manufactured by Royal Prod.
18 TPI
I.D. 1.193 This measurement is on the "peaks" of the threads. I have nothing to measure the "valley" of the threads.
Length of threads is 1.05 inches
O.D. of tube1.363

I found this collet table from a google search and this came up from practical machinist forum

http://hardingeus.com/usr/pdf/collet/2348F.pdf

This is confusing to me. A little help what I have here please. Do you need anymore measurements? I don't know how to measure the taper(sorry)

Where should one buy a set of these if they wanted some. What I'd like to do if its even possible, is be able to do some small parts like I can on the 3950(I know its overkill, but I'd sell the 3950 and all the attachments if it would be possible and cost effective, not sure I need to own 2 lathes) Thanks again to everyone
 
How certain are you that the thread pitch is 18 and not 20? I searched a several page table of collet dimensions that I have and found seven collets with 18 tpi threads. Two of them have an OD of around 3/4". The other five range from about 1-5/8" up to nearly 4".

I still think that you should borrow a 5C collet from someone and see if it doesn't match up to the threads in your draw tube.

One other dimension that you didn't give is the ID of the closer adapter that fits into the spindle taper. For 5C it will be about 1.255" or a hair less.
 
I will look next time I get a chance. I was pretty sure 18 was correct but I'll verify. I'm not sure what the closer adapter is but I'll see what I can figure out. Thanks for the help and I'll look tomorrow.
 
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