Who's used an annular cutter on their mill?

Will an end mill holder, R8, hold these annular cutters and not spin?
 
Will an end mill holder, R8, hold these annular cutters and not spin?
The shank of the annular cutter has a small section (about 3/16") between the two flats cut for the set screws. I make sure I get this positioned between the slots of the R8 collet and tighten with the same force I would on any other cutter and I have had no problems.

I use my 3/4" R8 collet. As I stated earlier, it gripped well enough to twist and crash a 9/16" cutter. :blowup:
 
I guess I'll pass on these until I can get the arbor. R8 Arbors are $223! I'll use my Lenox hole saws and Criterion boring heads for now.
 
I guess I'll pass on these until I can get the arbor. R8 Arbors are $223! I'll use my Lenox hole saws and Criterion boring heads for now.
You would only need one R8 X 3/4" collet although if you're buying annular cutters too that gets spendy, but I thought you already had the cutters.
 
Nice looking arbor D. Did you check TIR? I don't know if I can make an arbor with .002" TIR
 
I did not check but visually I can't see any movement. The first one I made there there definitely was some run-out. So I scraped it and remade this one. Is is a very close slip fit.
 
I've seen these cutters being used on the Bridgeport style mill with R8 collets but I'm not sure if I am looking at the correct ones. Most common is the 12,000 series Hougen cutters made for a mag drill.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252791795581?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

The shank is 3/4" but looks like it might be too short. Has anyone used this model or do you need the 53,000 series industrial version with the longer shank?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hougen-Rotabroach-1-25-Cutter-Lot-of-3-1-1-4-x-3-x-3-4-1-1-4-x-2-x-3-4/121805820929?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=41375&meid=c9a37ca237ac4423815f47d86bc69b9d&pid=100033&rk=2&rkt=8&sd=252791795581
That twist on that cutter will suck it out of a R8
If you are sidemilling a plate .
You will need a R8 Arbor with the set screw to run it
Best and not have to worry about it pulling out of your collet.
I had one pull out years ago . I was
In my apprenticeship when my boss
Handed me a print that required a good straight
Side to work from and a square plate 3/4 x 24" long
So I set the plate up on the table no vice on 1/2 or 3/8 strips of steel so the end of the cutter would
Clear the table . I put it in the 3/4 collet - it was all he had to hold the end mill .
I was happy with my set up .
I started cutting full length I was taking a good steady cut not to big but .015 to .030 deep on the side of that plate . I had coolent and the chips was piling up on the table as I was cutting .
I got the the end of the plate .
I stopped the mill and brushed the chips away
And I had the prettiest tapered slot you ever did see right in the table top on a Bridgeport mill .
He went the next day and bought a set of Arbors .
Those chips had it all covered up and that end mill was sucking out of the collet all the time .
 
Those chips had it all covered up and that end mill was sucking out of the collet all the time .
I only use them for light milling in aluminum if I need an obround hole, otherwise it's drilling holes.
 
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