Coated end mills for hobby shop manual mills

Many of you guys are too carbide happy! Most of the machines we use in the home hobby shop can't even use carbide cutters to their full potential. And,unless you have diamond grinding wheels on your tool and cutter grinder, you can't sharpen them.

Fortunately for me,I have so many surplus USA HSS cutters,I don't really need any more till I croak. There was a used machinery dealer in Richmond for many years,whose low prices enabled me to build up my shop vastly more than I could,if I had to pay retail prices. He has just retired. A sad loss.

The trouble with Chinese cutters is lack of quality control. Some of their cutters will be fully sharp. Some will NOT be fully sharp. I've HAD to use import cutters in the museum I worked in for 40 years as toolmaker. Budget constraints,you know. I have bought several of those 20 piece sets over the years,and have found big variations in how sharp they are.

Many of those sets of HSS cutters are coated. But,you can see through the coatings,so thin are they applied!! Might as well not be there!

At least,I have been able to sharpen them with my K.O Lee "Knock Out" tool and cutter grinder and my VERY old,but still quite functional Weldon cutter grinding attachment. Not one of the nice air bearing outfits,but it gets the job done.

But then,the original diameters of the cutters is altered,of course.

It seems to me that Chinese HSS is harder than USA HSS. The guys at Wholesale Tool told me that some customers prefer the Chinese HSS,as they will cut material that the softer USA HSS will not. I believe that,as I have found the Chinese HSS harder,but also MORE BRITTLE. Not as brittle as carbide,though. If they are fully sharp,they seem to perform pretty well.

So,my advice is not to buy Chinese HSS unless you can actually FEEL their cutting edges and see that they are sharp. That probably means a trip to Harbor Freight. I think that Harbor Freight picks the cheapest of the cheap Chinese stuff to sell,though.

My purchases at Harbor Freight are usually limited to acid brushes,twine,and sometimes their cheap ceramic kitchen knives. The knives are very sharp,except abut 1 1/2" from the tips of their knives,their grinding is not sharp,and you can actually see flat spots on the cutting edge of the blade. I can grind those flat spots away myself,though most can't. I had one of their knives' handles ,made of some kind of hard plastic/rubber(?) split open,and the blade fell out. But,that was on an older knife,and for $9.00 I can make a wooden handle,or just chuck it! Chinese plastic is always questionable. And,some times it actually STINKS. I have a drawer full of screw drivers,which emits an unpleasant odor when opened as it contains a few plastic handle screw drivers. Recently I have just gone back to steel knives. Those ceramic blades are VERY brittle,and you don't dare twist with them,no matter what they cost.

BTW: FORGET about buying Chinese files!! They NEVER are any good. The Mexican Nicholsons seem to have gotten their files fully hardened by now. GREAT news for those of us who use files a lot.
 
Whaaaaaaa!!?? I have 18 end mills so far, and nearly $425 invested. Good God that's quite a collection you have... o_O I don't think I can afford this hobby! LOL!

That represents many years of collecting endmills. When I buy for a job, I just buy a few extras. I also find deals on Craigslist occasionally.
 
I just found this video which addresses my initial question, actually. He runs the carbide endmills at the same feeds/speeds as a HSS one and they far outperform the HSS variety. I think the entire point of the video was to prove that while the carbide CAN run at much higher RPM than typical hobby mills can spin, they still perform exceptionally well at "normal" HSS speeds. This is super interesting...

 
That all makes perfect sense. I guess my hangup with it is that in a hobby shop, we're under no pressure or deadline (usually) to get something done. It's generally done for the enjoyment of the hobby, right? So if I can use a higher quality cutter that really cuts like butter vs an import (or otherwise) that is mediocre in comparison, it seems like the better cutter would make the hobby more enjoyable. But this is all my inexperience talking. Perhaps the HF end mills, while mediocre in comparison, are still perfectly acceptable and still enjoyable to use.

Well like everything else, there will be multiple opinions. I would use crap when I have something I won't risk a good cutter on. But a good cutter will cut better than a POS cutter. Sometimes you can ruin a piece of work with a bad cutter. Sometimes a crappy cutter will do... again, different situations, different opinions.. I would prefer to use higher end cutters.
 
That all makes perfect sense. I guess my hangup with it is that in a hobby shop, we're under no pressure or deadline (usually) to get something done. It's generally done for the enjoyment of the hobby, right? So if I can use a higher quality cutter that really cuts like butter vs an import (or otherwise) that is mediocre in comparison, it seems like the better cutter would make the hobby more enjoyable. But this is all my inexperience talking. Perhaps the HF end mills, while mediocre in comparison, are still perfectly acceptable and still enjoyable to use.
If I can buy tools at half the cost, I can have twice as many tools. When I can get tools for pennies on the dollar, I can (and do) have a whole shop full of tools. I love making old and neglected tools useful and looking nice again, often better than new. It takes a lot of elbow grease, but it is most satisfying. Often under the grime and surface rust you find names like Starrett, Browne & Sharpe, and other fine brands. Never pay retail!
 
I just found this video which addresses my initial question, actually. He runs the carbide endmills at the same feeds/speeds as a HSS one and they far outperform the HSS variety. I think the entire point of the video was to prove that while the carbide CAN run at much higher RPM than typical hobby mills can spin, they still perform exceptionally well at "normal" HSS speeds. This is super interesting...

Carbide is very brittle. If you have less than a truly rigid machine, it loves to chip and break. HSS and cobalt tools are much more forgiving. Carbide does not respond well to ham-fisted operators, either...
 
I was doing a job a month or so ago that the end mills would die in about 30 minutes. Standard carbide 2 flute 0.020" stubby @ 60k rpm with 25 ipm feed. This was going to get expensive so we looked at something different. Ended up using a coated 4F 0.020" stubby at the same rpm and feed. Now I could get through 3-4 times as many parts with one end mill vs the uncoated ones. So yes coated can run faster but not required in all cases.
Pierre
 
I just found this video which addresses my initial question, actually. He runs the carbide endmills at the same feeds/speeds as a HSS one and they far outperform the HSS variety. I think the entire point of the video was to prove that while the carbide CAN run at much higher RPM than typical hobby mills can spin, they still perform exceptionally well at "normal" HSS speeds. This is super interesting...


That's why I said to just use them. You will find they cut fine. We have to keep costs in mind or things can get out of hand. My approach is to use a good cutter in HSS whenever I can (to keep costs down), and use carbide when I need carbide. I think I go through more roughing end mills than most so my finish end mills last a long time. Hope you come to a happy place on this one because there are so many different opinions. In the end, it will come down to what your experience is and that will be the best guide.
 
I just found this video which addresses my initial question, actually. He runs the carbide endmills at the same feeds/speeds as a HSS one and they far outperform the HSS variety. I think the entire point of the video was to prove that while the carbide CAN run at much higher RPM than typical hobby mills can spin, they still perform exceptionally well at "normal" HSS speeds. This is super interesting...


You should watch all of Stefan's videos. He's actually a pretty knowledgeable guy. Don't let his age fool you (I'm not sure how old he is but he doesn't look old). It was hard for me to overcome his heavy accent at first but I think his English actually pretty good, English is not easy to learn as a second language. I always look forward to his videos.
 
Stefan is one of my top 3 favorites for machining. He's affectionately referred to as "Mr Precision" (though that could probably be more accurately applied to Robrenz).

My personal philosophy on the subject of "I'm just a hobbyist so I don't need the best" is that because I'm a hobbyist and have very limited time for my hobby it is important to me to make that time as productive, efficient, and effective as possible, to the extent my budget allows.

And I buy what I can at discount rates whenever possible, especially through eBay, classifieds, and a local industrial liquidator.
 
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