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- Nov 29, 2015
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- 439
A nice Sandvik carbide scraper blade can make that rock (door stop) flat again in no time if its found to be out of spec.
I was looking at this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272308140880
A nice Sandvik carbide scraper blade can make that rock (door stop) flat again in no time if its found to be out of spec.
Boy! They have gone up in price since I bought mine!I was looking at this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272308140880
Very nice scraper!I was looking at this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272308140880
And it's a deeeeep hole at that, too!......
... and then the rabbit hole has been entered.....
Very nice scraper!
maybe you could construct one too if you had the desire and braze a pre-sharpened blade insert to it, or create a blade lock similar to the Sandvik or the Anderson and use inserts as intended
then you need to be able to sharpen carbide.
... and then the rabbit hole has been entered.....
Paul, the second 20 in the part number is the width, in millimeters. That is slightly over 3/4" wide. That size would be good for finish scraping and for smaller work and large dovetails. For general work on larger surfaces, a 25mm or 1" width would probably be more generally useful. I have a pack of new 30mm Sandvik carbide scraper blades and you are welcome to one when you come visit. It is not difficult to make a scraping tool, and there are several common designs that you might copy to build yourself to fit you and your preferences. The 30 mm blade can be left as it is, or ground down to whatever size you desire. The Sandvik tools are nice, but are pretty cheap and easy to copy.I was looking at this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272308140880
And it's a deeeeep hole at that, too!
Next will be a scraped cast iron straight edges. Not just one, at least three of them in lengths up to 48"
Like Mike mentioned a carbide grinder. Not just a grinder, it's actually a lapper with the correct blade.
And almost have to have, a Biax power scraper with the tool pouch. And the list goes on and on...
Did I mentioned a planer?
I totally blew off the fact that the bottom of surface plates are rough cut, and useless for anything beyond holding up the top surface. Still, we can level the top surface with shims underneath and then indicate the top to look for dish or crown or other issues. What size is the plate? A lot of checking parts and comparing stuff is done with small plates like a comparator uses. I wish I had one...
Edit: Maybe we could put Ulma Doctor's .00005" (that is 50 millionths) DTI to work...
Paul, the second 20 in the part number is the width, in millimeters. That is slightly over 3/4" wide. That size would be good for finish scraping and for smaller work and large dovetails. For general work on larger surfaces, a 25mm or 1" width would probably be more generally useful. I have a pack of new 30mm Sandvik carbide scraper blades and you are welcome to one when you come visit. It is not difficult to make a scraping tool, and there are several common designs that you might copy to build yourself to fit you and your preferences. The 30 mm blade can be left as it is, or ground down to whatever size you desire. The Sandvik tools are nice, but are pretty cheap and easy to copy.
Yes, a green wheel will grind carbide, but it will need to be honed to finish it sharp and true. I know a fellow near here who has a small planer, from the 1800's, that is hand operated. It is tiny... He also has at least 5 more planers, up to BIG, a couple are from the 1860's, in beautiful original condition, and a lot of other really cool stuff!