[Lathe] 16" Von Wyck Machine Tool Co.

This image shows where the threading dial is on the 15" lathe. It drives off the leadscrew and you absolutely have to have a threading dial to do threading. (except there is a way to thread without a threading dial but is more involved).

My old Von Wyck had no dial increments on the compound rest. So I rigged up a dial indicator for that. And the cross-slide graduations weren't real accurate so that bar going across the top of the carriage has a dial indicator on it. Between those two indicators you could actually do some nice work with the old boy.

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That hoakie looking carriage stop worked so good you'll end up making one. Use 3/4" square stock and some fine file fitting. Has an attachment for dial indicator and an adjustable stop. It'll keep the carriage from hitting the rotating chuck.

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Is it just me, or is the centre section of the tool post T-nut markedly higher than the top surface of the compound slide? Might want to look at that.

-frank
 
Thanks Dutch for the detailed descriptions, I appreciate it.
I'll try and take more photos of it this weekend when I tare into the apron.
One thing I want to do is tare into the main bearings to asses the condition of the brass bearing wear, is there a torque rating for the main cap bolts? Also, is there a bearing tolerance that I need to check? I have plastigauge for engines that I could use, any suggestions there?

There is a carriage stop on the machine at the left end, home made, its shown in one of the photos from above (left control levers), but yours looks way nice.
 
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Is it just me, or is the centre section of the tool post T-nut markedly higher than the top surface of the compound slide? Might want to look at that.

-frank
If you see for the photo, the tool end from the tool post has never touched the compound slide, there are 2 Allan screws on the tool post base to level out the T base, but your are right it does protrude higher and the lateral fit is tight. I cant find any info on this tool post, I see that people are making their own, I would like to re-purpose this one if possible, any suggestions?
 
Also, is there a bearing tolerance that I need to check?

Other members may offer something better documented but on babbitt-bearing machines, I simply torque the bearing caps down incrementally as I'm turning the spindle by hand. If I start feeling resistance somewhere under 40 ft. lbs., I'll call that machine good to go. If I've got nothing by the time I reach 60, I'll chuck a substantial piece of round stock in the chuck with only a few inches sticking out, throw an indicator on it, and try to deflect it by lifting/pulling/pushing on the stock. Not an especially technical way of checking the bearings, but it does provide a fair idea of what you're dealing with.
 
I'm not positive how the indexing feature would work on that post -- shouldn't it just be a spring-loaded ball that engages a series of detents on the mating piece? My main concern was that the nut was standing very proud of the compound which in most cases is not a very stable set-up. Perhaps I am misreading how yours operates though.

-frank
 
Other members may offer something better documented but on babbitt-bearing machines, I simply torque the bearing caps down incrementally as I'm turning the spindle by hand. If I start feeling resistance somewhere under 40 ft. lbs., I'll call that machine good to go. If I've got nothing by the time I reach 60, I'll chuck a substantial piece of round stock in the chuck with only a few inches sticking out, throw an indicator on it, and try to deflect it by lifting/pulling/pushing on the stock. Not an especially technical way of checking the bearings, but it does provide a fair idea of what you're dealing with.
thats really a game of feel and delicacy with the bearings, but i do understand the logic, thanks for sharing. Ive herad that some of these brass bearings were shimmed, same theory might apply.
 
I'm not positive how the indexing feature would work on that post -- shouldn't it just be a spring-loaded ball that engages a series of detents on the mating piece? My main concern was that the nut was standing very proud of the compound which in most cases is not a very stable set-up. Perhaps I am misreading how yours operates though.

-frank
i would agree, i wouldnt expect two .25" alan leveling screws provide enough stability, i think i need to rethink this base, it might not work. The detent, like you said its probably spring loaded round wedge looking piece to fit the slot from the bottom of post.
 
I tried to remove the chuck back plate from the spindle, it was a total failure no matter what we've tried, afraid that we might break something I decided to take another route. I took the bearing caps off to inspect the brass wear and removed the chuck from the backplate.

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The bearings looked good for the age I taught, no deep gauges or significant wear.
We removed the spindle with the back plate and pulleys from the lathe.

Can somebody tell me how does one remove the spindle from the belt pulley system?
Also, I couldn't tell from looking, is the bull gear pressed on the spindle?

I'd like to get everything disassembled and cleaned up, I hope I didn't open a can of worms.

I hope I can figure a way to remove the spindle from the back plate without damage.
 
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