- Joined
- Feb 8, 2014
- Messages
- 11,145
Jim, if you do a schematic/diagram of the basics of what he needs, I can go by it and say what I have and have not.
0.075 KVA should do it
I can do that
Last edited:
Jim, if you do a schematic/diagram of the basics of what he needs, I can go by it and say what I have and have not.
Wow guys, you sure can put things together on the fly! Experience, experience, experience... There is simply no substitute.
Jim recommends a 100amp disconnect with 70 amp fuses. The lathe motor says 40 amps. I'm sure I'm missing something here, as usual, but why 70 amps?
Nice diagram. One of the things I thought about was lights, specifically lit switches. On the front panel of the lathe, there are switches for On, Off, Lamp, and Coolant Pump. There is also supposed to be a domed indicator light that shows the lathe is powered-on/running. I wonder if it would be useful to use lit switches for lamp and pump.
When you say "bring a neutral," you're meaning that we'll need the neutral in the 3 phase panel. Do I bring the neutral directly over from the single phase panel to the 3 phase panel?
Do you view DXFs in autocad?
A handle tie would be a good idea.That'll work also. I did just that for my mill, brought in the 240 single phase for the spindle VFD and another pair for the 120V plug on the wall in the same conduit but on a separate breaker. The VFD is hardwired in the box. Then put a quad plug on the wall. I plug in all of the control system into that.
I've done this a time or two
Normal fusing for a motor is about 175% of the motor maximum load current. Having said that, the breaker in your 3 phase panel should be adequate. A 60 amp unfused disconnect at the lathe would be OK. Or you could just use the 3 phase panel breaker as the disconnect. OK for home shop, but would not meet code in a commercial environment.
We can add lighted switches, no problem.
Yes, just pass the neutral through from the single phase panel, through the 3 phase panel and over to the lathe. In a commercial environment this is not normally possible, but since you are starting with single phase it makes the most sense.
You can use any DXF Viewer, but yes, this was generated in AutoCAD 2000.
Rather than pulling a neutral thru your 3-P box, I've run a 120v line to the control box separately from your 3-p wire run. In fact, you can run it along with your 3-p wire pull if you like. My last lathe I bought was wired for 440v and two separate wires were run to provide 120v for plugs and light. The contactor is set up to run on either 220v or 440v, just by changing jumpers on the coil. So I guess either way works as long as you don't mix it up with your green ground wire. Just remember to fuse a line off of the main line coming into your box for control voltage and light. For accessory plug, mount a 4-plug box up on the wall behind where your lathe will be set up and make sure it is GFIC protected. That goes for all plugs in your shop. It's considered outside according to NFA-NEC. Ken
That'll work also. I did just that for my mill, brought in the 240 single phase for the spindle VFD and another pair for the 120V plug on the wall in the same conduit but on a separate breaker. The VFD is hardwired in the box. Then put a quad plug on the wall. I plug in all of the control system into that.
A handle tie would be a good idea.
It ties the handle of the breaker protecting the spindle circuit to the handle of the single-pole breaker protecting the 120V aux circuit so that you cannot turn off one without turning off the other.John, thanks, where goes the handle tie?