Worthless Tools Gallery. What Tools do you regret buying?

I had one it was Gisholt 5L weight 44,000 pounds had up grade to power shot to 480 volt 24" foundation, new 32" chuck, tooling and 2,500 miles of shipping Use one time.

Gisholt 5L.jpg
 
I had one it was Gisholt 5L weight 44,000 pounds had up grade to power shot to 480 volt 24" foundation, new 32" chuck, tooling and 2,500 miles of shipping Use one time.


That's an expensive paperweight. :lmao:
 
Did not work as a paperweight it crush the desk :whiteflag:

I had others that for themes all ever week

9A south bend and 4 J&L turret best tools ever got use for over 30 years
Today I am down to just the 9a

Dave

That's an expensive paperweight. :lmao:
 
I also have a Porter-Cable profile sander, it worked for me. I used it to sand the some of the tighter corners on the inside of a cedar-strip canoe. But I use the much longer adhesive backed rolls from Lee Valley. I made a profile with a 2" radius as well. I've used the sander on the barrel channel of gun stocks, too.
 
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Fabrickator: Please note,I said I POLISHED new knife blades with the contour sander. I do not SHARPEN the blades with it. That would not work at all. It would just rip the sand paper.

I have used my sander with wet or dry paper to polish the hollow ground surfaces of knives that I've made. It works real well,and saves a lot of elbow grease. I can shine up a heat treated blade till it's like a mirror with the contour sander,and increasingly finer wet or dry,down to 2000 grit. Use a bit of soapy water or you'll load up the paper very quickly.

This Bowie style knife was polished with the sander. I made it out of D2,which is a lot of work to polish,being a very abrasion resistant steel.

You can also keep the surfaces nice and crisp,without rounding everything off. I don't want surfaces that look buffed to death,and you don't see buffed to death surfaces on antique knives. All is crisp and sharp edged looking.

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The ones I misplace (forever) before using them for the intended purpose. The misplaced ones I do find just after having given up and bought another.
 
Not to break the spirit of the thread but, what do you use to cut cement board. I was gifted 28 4 x 8 sheets of cement siding, it has a wood grain on it, painted white (primer?) Plan on using it to line the blacksmith shop. I made a couple of cuts with a 7 inch metal cutting abrasive wheel in the skill saw, lots of dust and horribly slow. Picked up a masonry one, is it going to be any better?

Greg

Will post some of my useless purchases, will just have to think which were the worst.

Hi Greg,
I have worked a bit with the cement siding just never seen a 4X8 sheet. I normally use the stuff that is approx 16"X12 ft (ish can't remember exact width). Ive seen 2 different tools to cut that stuff with though. You can get a specific circular saw blade for that stuff (I think Home Depot may carry them) or I have also use a heavy duty scissor like pneumatic thing to cut it with. The scissor thing had 2 heavy side pieces with a third one in the center. It pretty much lasts forever and does a neat job cutting the cement board... just a bit slow but not too bad and not nearly the mess of a circular saw.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/fib...140203__ALL_PLA-823909&pid=823909&kpid=823909

That was a 2 sec google search but something like that. The one I used at work had 2 sides and the center shear and it worked fine if I recall correctly. No matter what the edge trim we had for the cement board had to be cut using circular saw (too thick for the shears). Only use a circular saw blade if you are desperate... that cement board with dull your blades in a couple cuts as you will notice right away. The specific blades for cement board will last a lot longer though but they still dull after a day of use. At work when we cut that stuff the max we got was 3 easy days of cuts with a cement board blade.

Sorry to ramble but I hope it helps ya.

Curt
 
A cambell hausfeld battery charger from tractor supply. It would turn on, charge for a few seconds then turn off. I smashed it to pieces.
The northern tool brand 115 volt 110 amp mig welder. Not enough power, and really splatterd alot. I sold it on craigslist.
I dont buy royobi products after having a sawsall that lasted 2 months.

Jake Parker
 
Ryobi 18 volt cordless drill kit (nicad) and 4 extra battery's. I thought that it would be great nto having to mess with cords. Every time I needed it battery's were dead (hence 4 extras) so I ended up having to keep a battery on the charger all of the time, not good for them. They never held a charge long enough either. Oh well back to my good old plug ins that always work and have more power than I need.
 
Ryobi 18 volt cordless drill kit (nicad) and 4 extra battery's. I thought that it would be great nto having to mess with cords. Every time I needed it battery's were dead (hence 4 extras) so I ended up having to keep a battery on the charger all of the time, not good for them. They never held a charge long enough either. Oh well back to my good old plug ins that always work and have more power than I need.

Not so fast on counting that drill out. One of my next projects is to make a Tapping Machine out of one, replacing the batteries with a 0-24 volt power supply. Stay tuned on that one. :thinking:

"Billy G"
 
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