Milling machine table height

[ChrisBoon]

HI, I just bought a new milling machine. My first one.. The stand/cabinet that can be bought as an extra, looks flimsy and definitely too low for me.
I am now designing a solid stand as I did for my lathe. But now I need some information as to how high the milling table should be in comparison to my height.
Has anyone got any suggestions? I do wear reading glasses and would prefer not to stoop down too low to see what I am doing.
Any input will be appreciated.
Thanks
Chris

 

[Makintrax73]

32 1/2" stand, which yielded a 42 or 43" table height. My machines table is just slightly lower than my hands if I hold my arms at 90 degrees. That puts the top of my vise at just below sternum height. So far so good, but I'm a beginner not an expert.

Main thing for me is I found the commercial stands way to narrow. I made mine nice and wide so I have a place to pile up tools while I work

 

[ChazzC]

In the 90's I modified a heavy-duty Art-Steel "Steelmaster" legal file cabinet by adding a 2x4 base frame, a side-to-side stiffening rod (because it seemed like a good idea), a double layer of particle board to the top to spread the load and used it as a base for a Mill-Drill. I had to sell the M-D, but put a bench top drill press in its place. When I got my Mini-Mill 5 years ago, I added a spacer block to the top and this is the result:


Top of the table is 42-1/2" and top of the vise jaws is 45-1/2", both of which work for me (5'-11"+) It could be maybe another inch higher, but would soon start running into problems with the ceiling joists. As it is, I can upgrade to a Bench Mill and it will still work.

The two wide/deep/tall drawers give give storage for my most-used (and mostly mill) tooling:

 

[pontiac428]

The rule of thumb for ergonomic design is to place the work surface and controls at a height that positions the arms with a 90 degree bend at the elbow. The tolerance zone for that call-out is wide enough to drive a truck through, but that's the idea!

 

[Asm109]

Just remember you might need to access a draw bar nut on top of the machine, or adjust belts up there...............

IE don't make it too tall.

 

[ChazzC]

Just remember you might need to access a draw bar nut on top of the machine, or adjust belts up there...............

IE don't make it too tall.

I think half of the power draw bar installs are due to height constraints (or folks getting tired of needing a step stool to access).

 

[MikeInOr]

I am 6'3" and I raised the base on my 8x30 mill by 10" mainly to facilitate moving it with a pallet jack. I should have raised it higher! I also raised my other mill, a bridgeport clone, by 12" which puts my face about level with the spindle scale. It is the perfect height for me.


What kind of mill did you buy? Personally I think knee mills should be higher to maintain a good working height when the knees drop down.

 

[bulgie]

32 1/2" stand, which yielded a 42 or 43" table height. My machines table is just slightly lower than my hands if I hold my arms at 90 degrees. That puts the top of my vise at just below sternum height. So far so good, but I'm a beginner not an expert.

Main thing for me is I found the commercial stands way to narrow. I made mine nice and wide so I have a place to pile up tools while I work

Same type mill as yours, I made my stand from square steel tube welded together. I chose 33-1/2" for the stand height which puts the mill table at 44". I'm 6' 1". Would have gone another inch higher, maybe two, except it's in a low-ceiling basement. Given the constraints, I'm very happy with it. I have a step stool for changing the belts if the head is raised all the way up, but I don't think I've ever needed to use it (yet). Reaching the drawbar is not an issue at all.

Agreed on making it wider than the "factory" stand. I went with 24" because I had a free piece of 1/4" hot-roll plate given to me, 2' x 2', and that made a good top for the stand, so I designed around that. Wider might be better but in my case, the existing width just allows room for a small (quiet) air compressor and a vacuum cleaner to fit to one side, so balance all your needs and constraints in deciding on a width.

 

[ChrisBoon]

Hi Guys, thanks for the replies. I have already received some valuable information.
Much appreciated. Cheers. Chris

 

[dabear3428]

i did this.
i would not recommend the caster that i used they have too much flex when the leveling pads are deployed.
the expanded foot print helps a lot and i like the ability to move it around to clean under it or work on it, just not happy with the amount of movement the leveling pads still allow. i just leave the rollers down now for about the same stability and the convenience of moving it when i need.